Madrid, Spain – August 2025

Thanks for visiting my blog for my umpteenth visit to Spain, but a first visit to the Spanish capital!

Introduction

We booked this trip on somewhat of a whim earlier in the year, so that my wife Mikayla could have somewhere to go in the summer holidays (she’s a teacher). We were warned a few times after it was too late, that Madrid is ridiculously hot in August. That was true, in fact it was hotter than usual being 39 degrees one early afternoon, with wildfires not too far away and endless health and safety reminders on public transport. Still, expecting the worst, it wasn’t as bad as we thought. We took it easy around the hours of midday and 4pm and stayed in the shade as much as we could. Given my size and lack of fitness I honestly thought it was manageable, so personally won’t put people off going in the summer.

Anyway, Madrid is the modern day capital of Spain and located smack bang in the middle of the country. No beaches or 18-30 holidays here guys. The metropolitan area of Madrid has a population of around 3.4 million and in my opinion it feels a lot larger than perhaps it is.

Image ^ My favourite photos from the trip.

Costs & Getting Around

Ryanair flights from Bristol were super cheap at £80 each but we required one larger cabin bag that added an extra £60, so £220 total for the flights.

We absolutely loved our little apartment called Garden House Madrid (website link). At just £50 per night for three nights, it was around a 20 minute bus into the central area or a ten minute walk to the nearest metro. The bus stop was right outside the building and there was a huge supermarket with fast food options a ten minute walk away. The small additions in the room were really cute too, such as snacks, plasters, cotton buds… even a small bag of spare chargers!

We purposely didn’t have a breakfast option as we had facilities in the room, so only spent about £15 on Breakfast for three days from the supermarket that afforded enough bread, ham, butter, cereal, milk, fruit, juice, water and some cakes.

Image ^ Our room in the wonderful Garden House Madrid.

Madrid received my top marks for getting around. Total transport costs were just £20 each for 4 days and covered the wide network of metro and public buses, and possibly local trains but we didn’t use these. Buses seem to run every 5 to 15 minutes but note it’s a big city, so from one area to another could easily take an hour! I would add that traffic was never an issue for us. Most of the city benefits from 3-4 lanes available for vehicles in each direction! Google Maps worked well but on a few occasions the metro/bus linking was not to my preference.

You can purchase a tourism travel card at the airport metro station and the card also includes an airport transfer and back. Note the metro station is a LONG walk from Terminal 1, a good 20 minutes.

We had a great day trip to Toledo and Segovia on Day 3 that cost £120 and the tour of Real Madrid’s stadium was £35 each. Apart from that we didn’t really splash out on anything other than food, drinks, the odd souvenir.

We were really shit with food on the trip. Saving money on breakfast was great, but most of our other meals were fast food, which was similarly priced to the UK. We did have visit a Chinese buffet one evening, but the only time we planned to have paella and some local cuisine we decided against it due to not feeling 100%. I had to Google this at the time, but the tap water is safe to drink, I must have had about 10 litres of it during the week with no issue.

In total, without digging too much, I think the whole trip cost around £850 for four days / three nights.

Itinerary

Day One

Flying early morning meant that we made our way into the city from the airport, following the 2.5 hour flight, around 11am. We couldn’t check in until 1pm so visited the pre-planned supermarket to get some breakfast supply.

The supermarket was a real pain in the arse lugging around our bags in the wheelie basket things (top tip, take a bloody trolley key or change!!) and the place was massive, as in, a WHOLE isle just for your fix of ham variants!

Image ^ A section of just the two sides of an aisle of ham in the supermarket.

Once we took the bus three stops to outside our apartment and checked in, we had ham baguettes for lunch, an hour or so rest with the aircon, then negotiated our way towards the north of the centre to visit one of the most well-known sports stadia in the world.

Image ^ Outside the continuing-to-be renovated Bernabéu stadium.

The Santiago Bernabéu, home of Real Madrid has been undergoing renovations for the past few years so the tour wasn’t as complete as it may be in future (can think of no access to dressing rooms or pitch side?) but interesting enough.

I will say form the get go I am certainly NOT a Real Madrid fan, and the plethora of people walking around in £100 replica shirts actually left a bitter taste in my mouth. Oh how my and their cash could have benefitted their local football teams instead. This place was Disneyland for plastics.

Once I managed to get over this, and the cringe at some of the selfie-stick waving giddiness inside, I did try to actually appreciate the tour.

Image ^ A model of the finished article.

There was corridor after corridor of trophy rooms and an informative timeline of how both the club and stadium were formed. I was pleased Welsh legend Gareth Bale had his own space concerning the 2018 Champions League final (the overhead kick goal).

Image ^ Real Madrid’s collection of La Liga (Spanish League) trophies.
Image ^ Gareth Bale’s iconic goal accompanied by video highlights of the final.
Image ^ Bale’s boots and memorabilia from the 2018 final… done a good job cleaning them…
Image ^ Wall of 15 European Cups / Champions League trophies.

After these rooms you got a glimpse of the bowl for the first time, but had to walk half way around the stadium to actually visit the section where you could walk out of the concourse and admire the view from a seating area.

This was always going to be my favourite part of the tour. Perhaps some of you are surprised it was my first time at this stadium, but hopefully won’t be the last as I gazed at the away end imagining the scenes when Wales go 3-0 up in a future qualifying match.

Image ^ Stadium panorama. Nice if the pitch was there but it was pre-season. They played here just a week later though!

I tried to explain to Mikayla how the football pitch, once laid for the upcoming season, kind of folds away underground in a specific environment to keep the grass healthy… but I don’t know how successful I was doing so! However, I did intrigue her with a fun fact that whilst the renovation cost in the region of £1.5 BILLION, they only added an extra 4,000 seats taking the capacity to 85,000, a long way short of rivals Barcelona. No doubt a lot of this renovation is to accommodate more corporate ‘fans’ and outprice the locals further.

Back outside after being forced to walk through the gift shop (HELL ON EARTH) my final observation was how short in height the stadium looked. I reckon at least two of the 5 tiers are below ground level. Anyhow.

After a bus or two we then visited the Puerta del Sol public square for a photo of the “El Oso y el Madroño”, a bronze statue of a bear and a strawberry tree. Somewhat underwhelming given the tourist interest but a very recognisable image many relate with Madrid.

Image ^ El Oso y el Madroño.

As the heatwaves from the direct sunline started to ease off, we visited a stately square Plaza de Mayor on the way towards the Royal Palace and Santa Maria Cathedral.

Image ^ Plaza del Mayor, Madrid.
Image ^ Plaza del Mayor, Madrid.
Image ^ Plaza del Mayor, Madrid.

A stones throw away from the Palace, I changed my mind about continuing our exploring for the day. We had been awake since 4am and easily passed 20,000 steps. Instead of having a half-arsed flying visit now we’d enjoy our time here better tomorrow.

Image ^ Santa Maria Cathedral from the outside.

Day Two

Before our proposed re-visit to the Royal Palace and Santa Maria Cathedral, we chose to visit Moncloa’s Lighthouse to the north-west of the centre. This place promised great views over the city and at just €4 each to get the lift to the top, once you walked past Moncloa Arch that celebrated Francoist triumphs in the Spanish Civil War, it was well worth the money, especially as I had seldom seen this on things-to-do lists.

Image ^ Moncloa Arch with Moncloa lighthouse in the background.

We spent a little longer up here taking our time to read the information boards that highlighted specific buildings in view in certain directions. The sight of four massive skyscrapers stood out to the north, and there was a one building which had a phoenix on when built buy an old insurance company, which, ironically, has since gone out of business! Another building we were informed was built from the top down (cool but why) and then the more recognisable sights in the historic centre of the city. Apologies for some crap photo’s here it must have been the way the glass was angled!

Image ^ View of four tallest buildings in Spain.

If your squinting to try and see the Bernabéu, it’s actually behind the tall “tower “Picasso Tower” to the right on the horizon… Sorry to disappoint you. I did tell you the stadium didn’t seem very high from the outside!

Image ^ Details about the buildings in the photo above.
Image ^ You can just make out the building with a phoenix on top to the left, and the building built from the top down on the right.
Image ^ Looking towards the old town and Retiro Park.

Catching the Metro to the Opera station in the centre, we walked past the opera theatre towards the palace.

Image ^ Statue located between the opera theatre and Royal Palace.

Hopefully the photos above and below give an indication to the scale of the Royal Palace. Massive. I prefer not to give royalty any more money than I had to so we didn’t visit inside. A self guided visit was around €15 but note what also put me off were the queues… not too long but stuck in the direct sunshine!

Image ^ The Royal Palace, taken through the gates.

From here we walked around the side of the Santa Maria cathedral that lies adjacent to the Palace. It’s the place I took a photo of the outside for the last photo on day one. We paid a Euro donation to visit and I don’t really know what else to say, not being really into this type of thing. I can tell you I had a nice sit down on a pew for ten minutes though whilst Mikayla explored (shittest blog…).

Image ^ Inside the Santa Maria Cathedral.

From the Cathedral we walked a good kilometre in the midday sun back to Puerta del Sol (the bear statue) and having my first ever Taco Bell for lunch (probably the most Spanish thing I ate all trip) paid a visit to some Egyptian ruins. Nowhere near Egypt. I know…

Image ^ Temple of Debod, Madrid.

The Temple of Debod is set in a pretty park area. According to Wikipedia, The Egyptian government donated the temple to Spain in 1968 as a sign of gratitude for their participation in the International Campaign to Save the Monuments of Nubia. Nubia was a region along the Nile.

The largest building was a shrine. I was really surprised that we couldn’t enter here to have a nose, and even though it seemed quiet, were told that they can only allow so many people to visit per day.

To get here we had to walk for about 20 minutes from the nearest metro and up a few flights of steps. Paired with the peak of heat being close to 40 degrees I did struggle somewhat around here. We did originally plan to play it safe and go back to the hotel, but once we caught a long bus with air condition, we decided to metro and bus jump to the far east of the city and visit another football ground, this time belonging to Atletico Madrid.

Image ^ There’s a 70,000 seater stadium around here somewhere, honest…

With google AND metro signage making it clear that the stadium stop was not operating, which made sense as it was in the middle of nowhere and not a match day, we alighted from the next closest metro and walked. I find the above photo quite humorous as at this point I had dragged my poor wife to the outskirts of Madrid just to look at a football stadium, that wasn’t even open!

Luckily it didn’t take too long to emerge with a great view of the modern Metropolitano stadium, and luckier still, that Metro station was in fact bloody open, to make our trip back to the apartment for a rest a little smoother.

Image ^ The craply named Riyadh Air Metropolitano. I’ll just stick with Metropolitano...

We knew we had a full day on a trip tomorrow so didn’t place much on the agenda this evening. Just as Kay was obtaining the divorce papers over another football ground visit, she rescinded these once she realised the home of Rayo Vallecano was only a few stops away from our apartment, and we even felt the joy of some raindrops!

Image ^ Estadio de Vallecas, home of Rayo Vallecano.
Image ^ Mural outside Estadio de Vallecas, home of Rayo Vallecano.

That evening for dinner we made the questionable decision to visit a Chinese buffet restaurant in Príncipe Pío train station the other side of the city, which amounted to another two hours use of our transport passes.

Day Three – Toledo and Segovia day trip

Today was fun. We booked this day trip (link) via Viator.

** Note ** I could probably double the length of the total blog with information on this trip. Reading it back after it’s first draft, I should have maybe put a few more bits in, but you can always google the stated locations for more insight!

Image ^ Outside the Las Ventas bullring.

Our pick-up point, somewhat interestingly perhaps, was outside Las Ventas Bullring, which is active and slaughters bulls on a nightly basis in the name of culture. Whilst it was certainly an impressive structure, I won’t really be saying much more about it. I did laugh at some of the reviews on Google a few weeks prior, many along the lines of “I had a nice time apart from the animal killing etc etc”… *shrugs*

Anyway… Our day today would involve driving south of Madrid for an hour to Toledo, then a two hour drive north, passing Madrid, before a final hour back to base. If that makes any sense.

Although the bus was mostly full we managed to swag the back 5 seats to ourselves and enjoyed wonderful aircon that made the journey comfortable. As we arrived into Toledo we were dropped off for a photo opportunity roadside with a panoramic view of the town. Splendid, that.

Image ^ Viewpoint look out on Toledo.

Before we would start our walking tour, we had a pit stop at a nearby Damasquinado factory (the art of inlaying different metals into one another—typically, gold or silver into a darkly oxidized steel background—to produce intricate patterns).

Image ^ Bloke making a sword.

Some reviews were annoyed at this was a ploy to get you to buy something, but I found the stop short, interesting, and the gift shop had some cool and reasonably priced swords but good luck getting that through hand luggage… Annoyingly I can’t find the name of the actual place as there are a few sword makers around – Toledo is famous in this field – but the place we visited made swords for the Lord of the Rings and Game of Thrones series.

Image ^ Swords for sale. Some were as little as €130 I thought that was cheap…

Another short ride concluded and we started off our walking tour of Toledo, kicking off crossing a bridge and a sizeable uphill walk to San Juan Monastery. I’m not going to go in to detail but the tour guide was really informative all day about the history of places visited, explaining back when Toledo was the capital of Spain, Muslims controlled the area but allowed Jews and Christians to live in harmony, ultimately changing when the Catholics gained power.

Image ^ San Juan Monastery, Toledo.

We stopped at a few spots around the Jewish quarter, which was the largest on the Iberian Peninsula at the time, and onto the majestic Catedral Primada de Toledo. Crikey, just noticed how many places of worship are here in such a small area!

Image ^ Outside the Catedral Primada de Toledo.

We paid €12 each to enter here, shaving off our time for lunch but it was a worthy expense. The downloadable audio guide had over 40 points of interest and in 30 minutes we didn’t get to see them all. I put that down to the guide being rather hard to follow but it was impressive nevertheless.

Image ^ Inside the Catedral Primada de Toledo, the main altar.
Image ^ Inside the Catedral Primada de Toledo, some outstanding carving on the seats that the choir uses.

Following the tour we had to manoeuvre through the narrow tourist-heavy streets to the main plaza and Royal Alcázar of Toledo for a quick bit to eat before meeting back up with the group.

Image ^ Walking through the narrow streets of Toledo. Those sheets above were a good shout.

To re-join the coach, which was parked back down the cliff face, we used no less than eight escalators. I’ve only just realised writing this that WHY didn’t we bloody start here and get the escalators UP hill and than walk back down hill?!? Never mind I could do with the exercise.

Image ^ Loads of escalators to get us back down to the bus.

Fast forward two hours and we were now north of Madrid in Segovia. Segovia has a rich architectural legacy, including medieval walls, Romanesque churches, a former royal palace and a Gothic cathedral. There is no doubt however, what the outstanding piece of architecture is that brings tourists along… its ancient Roman aqueduct has more than 160 arches and stands above Plaza Azoguejo in the heart of the city.

Image ^ Segovia Acqueduct.

The aqueduct was built way back in the first century and was built to transport water from the mountains over 10 miles away to fountains, public baths and private houses.

Fun fact: This aqueduct was constructed without using cement and still stands to this day, incredible stuff at that time. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere near if one stone was to come loose…

Image ^ Segovia Aqueduct.

After some photos and an ice cream we started another short-ish walking tour through Segovia passing the aforementioned gothic church (another huge and imposing building) and main Plaza del Mayor, where it was explained that many plazas have buildings with balconies surrounding the squares such as this and Plaza del Mayor in Madrid. The guide state this location was prolific in ‘dealing’ with people who refused to convert to Christianity in the allowed timeframe after taking rule of the region.

Image ^ Gothic style Catedral de Segovia.

Our final stop in Segovia and thus the tour was the Alcázar de Segovia, a medieval castle. The tour guide suggested that the castle was what Snow White’s Disney castle was based upon, but considering Snow White is German, I have my reservations!

Image ^ Alcázar de Segovia.

Nevertheless, the castle was in picturesque surroundings and once inside offers superb views of surrounding areas. There were many rooms in the castle that we walked through, but in lieu of any form of guide, and being a bit medieval-ed out at this point I just enjoyed the scenery!

Image ^ View of central Segovia from Alcázar de Segovia.

By the time we were dropped off back in Madrid it was 8pm (eleven hour tour for €60 each wasn’t bad) we didn’t do anything above dinner and travel back to the apartment.

Day Four

Today started off a bit shit. I was due to go to Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan for the football in 16 days time. I looked to see if I could check in for the flights over breakfast, only to see Pegasus Airlines had cancelled my flights without as much as an email! That meant that I was a little miserable today without having access to a PC to properly consider my options. Fear not, just as we boarded the plane home I found similar flights, so the next blog is still a GO! (as of 10 days before my trip!)

Carpe diem and all that… today was a chance to go around at our own pace and see a few things we planned when relaxed or weren’t all that fussed about.

We left our luggage at the apartment and headed to Retiro Park, something we were looking forward to all week. Covering 125 hectares it’s Madrid’s equivalent of London’s Hyde Park. The park was really nice and definitely worth a visit. We managed to do a big circle without being in the sun too much. Not much more to say about the park but I’ll caption the images…

Image ^ Reitor Park, Madrid. Monument to the Álvarez Quintero Brothers (Spanish dramatists).
Image ^ Retiro Park boating lake.
Image ^ Retiro Park, Madrid.
Image ^ The Crystal Palace underoing renovation in Retiro Park, Madrid.
Image ^ Rose garden in Retiro Park, Madrid.
Image ^ Enjoying the shade in Retiro Park, Madrid.
Image ^ Parterre Garden in Retiro Park, Madrid.

Walking from here, past the Puerta de Alcalá arch, Mikayla was keen to visit the Madrid Library, which we did, but it was a bit boring as the public were only granted access to and small exhibition.

Image ^ Puerta de Alcalá triumphal arch.
Image ^ National Library of Spain.

Just as Mikayla got over the two hour detour visiting the Atletico Madrid stadium earlier in the trip, I convinced her that we should visit ANOTHER ground, the Coliseum in Getafe, to complete the set of four Madrid-based who play in the Spanish top flight.

Image ^ The Coliseum stadium, home of Getafe football club.

Make your own mind up whether it was worth the trip for the walk around outside and average photograph. It didn’t help matters that Getafe lies just outside the boundary of our travel card, so had to fork out an extra €3 each for the additional two stops on the metro!

At least we had a quiet lunch in a deserted KFC. As our flight wasn’t until 10:30pm we still had the whole afternoon spare. I was pleased to suggest we pay a visit to those 4 tall buildings we noticed at the top of the Lighthouse on day two. The zillionth long transport route later I found it cool to be amongst the four highest buildings in Spain and I don’t think we seen another tourist.

Image ^ 3 of the 4 tallest buildings in Spain.

The Torre de Cristal stands at 249m tall with its three neighbours 230, 236 and the other just 70cm smaller! Gutting that… especially as they were ALL finished in 2008! Fun fact: The 5th tallest building is in bloody Benidorm.

Image ^ … and the other one that was hiding in the last photo!

Although we decided to make tracks to the airport at this point, I did have a hope to see the two main locations that featured in La Casa Del Papa / Money Heist, a Spanish language TV programme I thoroughly enjoyed during lockdown (watch it it’s on Netflix). The two buildings were the Bank of Spain and the Mint. We had already passed the Bank a few times which is near Retiro Park. When researching the Mint however, I found that the show actually used different locations in Madrid to film. Makes sense but I felt a bit daft.

We didn’t bother with our included airport transport using the metro, instead catching the bus for €5 each. It only took about 15 minutes to the airport, and, TOP TIP, it dropped you off outside the terminal of choice rather than a 30 minute walk from the metro station!

Image ^ One final bus to take us to the airport.

I have already told you about successfully rebooking flights for my trip to Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan (touch wood), so that was good. Our flight was delayed by 45 minutes, we got home at 3am and I had to be up at 7am to drive 175 miles for work! But it was a great trip.

Things we didn’t do…

  • Actually watch a football game in one of the grounds visited. In fairness it was pre-season…
  • Eat some bloody Spanish food!
  • A nice dinner or drink in one of the many rooftop bars with a good view
  • Ride the cable car from Ouest Park to a viewpoint – currently undergoing major reconstruction
  • If we had loads of time, there’s a Warner Bro’s theme park in Madrid

Thanks for reading! Wish me luck for the next trip, I may just need it!

New York, Washington & Philadelphia, USA – December 2015

Welcome to what will probably be my oldest blog to feature on here. It’s summer 2025 so I’m writing this just the NINE and a half years after the event. In the hope of avoiding putting you off reading other posts, I usually write up my travels within a few weeks, complete with a full itinerary alongside photos, costs, accommodation and fun facts!

However, when we visited the US, the blog was not even a twinkle in my eye. Add that to some shoddy photos and naïve cropping decisions, forgive me for something different and of a lesser quality than I’m usually happy with.

Image ^ My favourite photos of the trip.

Before this trip we had only been to Krakow and Berlin as a couple. Interestingly this was only my second trip outside Europe, as I had flown close to the Statue of Liberty six months prior, changing flights at Newark on the way to Colorado for a charity event.

I’m just going to run through what we did each day and dump the photos from that day with captions.

I thought we covered bloody loads in a short space of time. In just 5 full days we saw everything we wanted to see in NYC, plus day trips to Washington DC and Philadelphia, both several hours away in different states!

Day One

Flew from London to JFK.

Managed to negotiate the subway to our hotel, which was a few minutes walk from Times square! Surfacing here for a first view of NYC was pretty cool.

Image ^ Here we goooo.
Image ^ The view that welcomed us after emerging from the subway station.

Day Two

Looking back, I’m surprised we didn’t hit the Statue of Liberty straight away, but as a travel amateur at that point I think I wanted to wait until we arrived to book tickets. Don’t worry, we’ll visit later on.

Wandered around Central Park. South to north and back again was five miles! In awe of the size and changing environment within the park. Hard to believe in some spaces that you were in the middle of one of the most densely populated cities in the world. My favourite part of the city.

Had a mini walking tour around Chrysler building, Empire State building, New York Library and Grand Central train station.

Went to the top of the World Trade Centre and visited the Two Towers memorial site.

Image ^ Central Park.
Image ^ Map of Central Park, a massive 2.5 miles long.
Image ^ Strawberry Fields plaque, John Lennon memorial in Central Park.
Image ^ John Lennon memorial in Central Park.
Image ^ Central Park.
Image ^ Also Central Park. Seriously what is this doing in the middle of New York?!.
Image ^ Harlem Meer in Central Park.
Image ^ Untermyer Fountain in Central Park.
Image ^ Central Park Reservoir.
Image ^ Central Park Reservoir. Vividly remember getting lapped TWICE by a jogger walking past here!
Image ^ Alice in Wonderland statue in Central Park. Loved this.
Image ^ Central Park.
Image ^ Ice rink in Central Park.
Image ^ Southern Central Park looking at One57 skyscraper and Hampshire House.
Image ^ Empire State Building.
Image ^ NY Central Library.
Image ^ Inside NY Central Library.
Image ^ Outside Grand Central Station.
Image ^ Inside Grand Central Station.
Image ^ Inside Grand Central Station.
Image ^ Chrysler Building.
Image ^ 9/11 Memorial where the Two Towers stood.
Image ^ 9/11 Memorial where the Two Towers stood.
Image ^ View from the World Trade Centre looking west (New Jersey over the river).
Image ^ View from the World Trade Centre looking north.
Image ^ View from the World Trade Centre looking east with Brooklyn Bridge and Brooklyn.
Image ^ Top of the World Trade Centre looking down at the 9/11 Memorial.
Image ^ View from the World Trade Centre looking south, can just make out the Statue of Liberty.
Image ^ Random subway picture of Cortlandt street. Sound the subway very easy to negotiate!

Day Three

Day tour to Washington DC. Travel took around 4 hours each way so a full day blocker. Fun fact: The trip took us through New Jersey, Delaware and Maryland states, so a great superficial tick boxing exercise!

Joined a guided tour in Washington. I think the photos are in order so…

Vietnam memorial… Lincoln memorial… Korean War memorial

I remember being told of all the statues in this area, you can only ever make eye contact with one statue at any location around the site.

The White House (before the nutter had his first term… Madame Tussaud’s Washington

Smithsonian Air and Space museum. No photos from here. A shame but I recall feeling a bit underwhelmed by it to be honest.

And finally, Capitol Hill.

A really good use of a day but a bit limiting in terms of exploring. It was years after when I found out there was a big bloody river nearby… And there’s loads of other memorials and stuff.

Image ^ Vietnam War memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Vietnam War memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Vietnam War memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Lincoln Memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Martin Luther King plaque at Lincoln memorial where he delivered his famous and powerful speech.
Image ^ Lincoln memorial, statue of the bloke himself!
Image ^ View from Lincoln memorial looking at the infinity pool and Washington Monument.
Image ^ Lincoln Memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Korean War memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Korean War memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ Korean War memorial, Washington DC.
Image ^ View from Washington Monument with Lincoln memorial in the background, Washington DC.
Image ^ .The White House, Washington DC
Image ^ Madame Tussaud’s, Washington DC.
Image ^ Madame Tussaud’s, Washington DC.
Image ^ Capitol Hill, Washington DC. Scaffolding follows me everywhere…
Image ^ View from the Capitol building, Washington DC.

Day Four

Looking at the photos, we didn’t do too much today. 

Walked around downtown and Wall Street, then up and over Brooklyn Bridge. Disappointingly we didn’t do anything in Brooklyn apart from a McDonald’s before catching the subway back to Manhattan. That was a shame.

In the evening we had a walk closer to our hotel in Midtown. Rockefeller Centre, the Empire State again, a church I remember from Home Alone 2 (although just found out the scenes were filmed in Illinois!), surely some other things but I’m being guided by the photos nearly ten years on!

Image ^ New York Stock Exchange.
Image ^ Wall Steet, New York City.
Image ^ Federal Hall, Wall Street, New York City.
Image ^ Fuck off Donald.
Image ^ Looking out at Brooklyn from Manhatten.
Image ^ Brooklyn Bridge.
Image ^ Brooklyn Bridge.
Image ^ Brooklyn Bridge.
Image ^ Brooklyn Bridge.
Image ^ Brooklyn Bridge.
Image ^ Empire State Building.
Image ^ Christmas Tree outside Rockefeller Centre.
Image ^ Some random street near the Rockefeller Centre.
Image ^ St Patrick’s Church.

Day Five 

Strange how we managed to wait until today to visit the top of my list, being the Statue of Liberty. Not an expensive excursion back in the day I don’t think. 

Liberty Island didn’t disappoint and neither did the boat ride to take us island hopping. We were too late booking to get tickets to go up to the crown of Lady Liberty, so get them as far in advance as possible!

Fun fact: The statue is supposed to be the same colour as a 2p coin i.e. copper, but the water over the years given it its green colour.

Fun fact: We purchased our first travel Christmas tree decoration on Liberty Island, a challenge we have completed on every trip together since. We’re missing Krakow and Berlin sadly before this time.

After the statue we had a tour of Ellis Island. Can’t remember much from here but we obviously visited the Museum of Immigration. This used to be the first port of call for SO MANY people who made America what it is today. 

Back on land, probably one of Kay’s highlights, we visited Katz Delicatessen, famous from the scene in When Harry Met Sally. The lengthy queue was worth the wait. Mikayla ordered some sort of meat platter and I simply said “I’ll have what she’s having….” *smiles at my own cleverness*

Afterwards we had a lengthy stroll back to our hotel stopping off at the Flatiron building. No idea why I haven’t got a photo of this.

Oh yeah! Today was also New Year’s Eve 2015/16, celebrating 7 years being a couple. Even though we were close to Times Square we were too late to be allowed in together with the million or so at Times Square to watch the midnight celebration and famous f’ball drop’.

Fun fact: they closed the subway tracks underneath Times Square for this occasion, for security. Ok not really a fun fact…

We visited a Chinese restaurant that tasted nothing like the UK cuisine (so probably actual Chinese food) and had the fabulous idea to watch the fireworks from the large rocks back at Central Park. Bar the off tree I think we had a much better view than being ground level in Times Square with 7,163 skyscrapers in front of you?

Image ^ Downtown Manhattan view from the boat to Liberty Island.
Image ^ Statue of Liberty, New York City.
Image ^ Statue of Liberty, New York City.
Image ^ Back of the Statue of Liberty, New York City..
Image ^ Statue of Liberty, New York City and downtown Manhattan panorama. One of my favourites, this.
Image ^ Ellis Island Museum of Immigration.
Image ^ Katz Delicatessen, New York City.
Image ^ A light lunch at Katz Delicatessen, New York City.
Image ^ Katz Delicatessen, New York City.
Image ^ Empire State Building on New Years Eve.
Image ^ Central Park.
Image ^ A rather naff photo of the New Year fireworks to the North of Central Park.

Day Six

Day trip to Philadelphia. Really can’t remember if we caught the train or another Greyhound bus to visit, but travel time was around 2 hours. 

First stop was the Liberty Bell with its famous crack, caused by nothing more interesting than over usage.

Nearby was Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution were debated & signed. Just a bit of historical importance!

Feeling active, we would walk miles today, as we headed to our main destination being the Philadelphia Museum of Art… or the Rocky steps as widely recognised. On the way we would pass the City Hall complete with a Welsh plaque commemorating Welsh settlers and the street Benjamin Franklin Parkway, which I’m gonna call the avenue of flags.

Every lamp post on the long street had a country’s flag on it. Hundreds of them. Flags are my specialist quiz subject after Corinthian football figures, so I was super chuffed to impress my girlfriend turned wife with my knowledge. 

At the Museum / Rocky steps we had a quick nose at the Rocky Balboa / Sylvester Stallone statue before the MANDATORY run (slow jog) up the steps just like in the movie! 

It was a long walk back down flag avenue but we did finally see the Welsh flag before still a mile or so back to the transport station back to NYC. 

It was late when we got back but I did take a quick walk to the Disney Store in times square for a souvenir that we still treasure today. And a pizza slice. Had to have a pizza slice. 

Image ^ Liberty Bell, Philadelphia.
Image ^ Independence Hall, Philadelphia.
Image ^ The room where the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution were debated & signed.
Image ^ Washington Square, Philadelphia.
Image ^ Welsh Society plaque on Philadelphia City Hall.
Image ^ Philadelphia City Hall.
Image ^ Rocky Balboa statue.
Image ^ Philadelphia Museum of Art i.e the Rocky steps building.
Image ^ The Rocky steps.
Image ^ View from the Rocky steps looking down Benjamin Franklin parkway with City Hall at the end.
Image ^ … had to be done, didn’t it….
Image ^ Y baner Cymru near Philadelphia City Hall.
Image ^ One last trip to Times Square to pick up some Disney souvenires.
Image ^ Decent pizza and by far the cheapest meal you get get in these parts.

Day 7

Our last morning as we would be flying back this afternoon. We ticked off the final ‘core attraction’ being the top of the Empire State building, visiting as soon as it opened. 

Glad we visited one in the night ( World Trade Centre) and one in daytime. The views were incredible and leaving it until the last day meant we could point out our previous adventures of the trip. 

That was it pretty much. For some strange reason we ended up getting the subway to some suburban place and then a public bus to JFK airport?!

It’s been nearly ten years but we still have great memories of our (currently only) visit to NYC. 

Image ^ Ground level inside the Empire State Building.
Image ^ View from the Empire State Building, facing north.
Image ^ View from the Empire State Building, facing south. Just about see Liberty Island.
Image ^ View from the Empire State Building, facing south.
Image ^ View from the Empire State Building, facing east.
Image ^ View from the Empire State Building, rather high up!
Image ^ Boarding our plane back to normality.

Things we didn’t do / Things I want to do next time…

If you gave me 24 hours in NYC I would happily just wander around Central Park all day above anything else.

  • Walk along the High Line, an old rail track converted into an above ground public walkway
  • Coney Island for the beach and theme park
  • A day trip to Boston, about 3 hours away
  • Visit the building where Only Murders in the Building is set (a fave of mine…)
  • See a show on Broadway
  • Visit a few sports grounds in NY / New Jersey. Maybe catch a baseball game at the Yankee Stadium
  • Visit the Bronx and have a better look around Brooklyn
  • Go see the Guggenheim Museum and Maddison Square Garden, at least from the outside

With a bit of luck Cymru will be at the 2026 football World Cup set in the US, Canada and Mexico, and if so, perhaps one of the games will be in neighbouring New Jersey’s MetLife stadium (also host of the final). I’ve already started saving / trying to get Mum to go so she’ll pay for me.

Thanks for visiting 🙂

Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba & Dead Sea, Jordan – December 2018

May it be a future lesson to not wait 6-and-a-half-years to start a blog post. I did write an introduction (all one page of it) in July 2019 which has helped a bit with the costs but apart from that it will be very off the cuff! Thankfully the photographs will do the trip justice, even though I had already edited them years prior and rather peeved that I no longer have the originals to do a better job with them this time around.

Jordan is nestled in amongst some…. more volatile… countries should I say? It borders Israel, Iraq, Syria and Saudi Arabia yet is one of the more peaceful countries in the region. Jordan is a 97% Muslim country although I did see some signs of Westernisation if you want to call it that. Tourists are well looked after and many young girls and women (especially in the modern shopping centres in Amman) can walk around without head coverings. It’s location also means it has close links with Christianity being a stones throw away from Jerusalem and Bethlehem.

This holiday was our first time visiting the middle-east and we have only really visited Egypt that has been somewhat similar. It can be a very big culture shock. Looking back in the summer of 2025, I cannot believe that we achieved so much with loose plans and no pre-arranged travel before we left on 27th December.

The day before (Boxing day watching Newport lose 4-1 with a few drinks), I was terrified that out trip wouldn’t even get off the ground, literally, as we had problems checking in to our flights. Having spent an hour on the phone, half-cut no doubt, the Turkish Airlines rep told us just to turn up at the airport and all will be fine. I must have had more resilience in my younger years as I would melt over the worry today!

Image ^ My favourite 9 photos from the trip!

Costs

We booked the flights and accommodation with Expedia, having been pleased with their offerings for our other annual big trips to New York, Toronto and Hong Kong over the past three years. Their website only appears to hold booking history for five years, but I’m certain we didn’t get much change out of £1,500 for return flights from London to the capital Amman and a really budget apartment for two people. I have looked for the same dates in December 2025 and remarkably (I’m genuinely amazed), the prices are somewhat similar as of August 2025.

This is where the price breakdown gets a bit ropey but I would add an extra £1,000 on to this for spending, trips and activities. You can’t be staying in Amman all week. I’ll include these along the way if that’s alright with you?

Image ^ Outside Queen Alia International Airport

Day Zero… is here just to note that this day was spent flying from London to Amman via Istanbul, which took most of the day!

Day One – Amman

We arrived at the very modern and spotless Amman airport and queued to get our Visas (no need to get Visa’s beforehand in 2018 but check!) paying £20-40 for the privilege, and a very pretty passport stamp.

We pre-booked a taxi costing £30, which was a masterstroke in hindsight as there is no public transport and we exited the terminal at 3am! It was roughly a 30-45 minutes drive into central Amman to arrive at our apartment.

Al Jazeera Hotel Apartments (link) were indeed very cheap and we didn’t expect the Ritz but shower taps hanging off the wall, a broken bed and a portable gas heater were definitely not included in the brochure! I’ve finally turned a corner in terms of accommodation and very much use the “get what you pay for” mantra worldwide.

Image ^ Our… less than luxury… living room at the Al Jazeera Apartments.

After a delayed start due to a sensible lie in, we headed to the number one site in Amman, being the citadel. We were a good two mile away that required a walk downhill, only to be presented with a steep hill to climb to get up to our destination. With no obvious route up we finally gave in to one of HUNDREDS of taxis who drove nearby and honked at the obvious tourists. A quid or two well spent meant we were at the citadel.

Image ^ The remains of the Temple of Hercules in Amman Citadel.

The Amman Citadel towers over downtown and considered to be towards the top of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places with evidence dating back over 3800 years. There are several structures still visible from the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad period.

Image ^ Amman Citadel.

The major remains at the site are the Temple of Hercules (the arch thing), a Byzantine church, and the Umayyad Palace. My photo’s here are not very intuitive I admit. Umm what else… entry was around £2-3 each!

Image ^ View of the Roman Theatre from Amman Citadel.

After a good time seeing the scale of the capital, which we really wouldn’t scrape the surface of, we made our way to the Roman theatre pictured above.

Image ^ Roman Theatre in Amman.

There was some exhibition on in one of the two museums but we were more interested in scaling the steps, built in to the hill for a few photos.

I’m not sure what we did afterwards apart from arrange buses and accommodation that would take us to Petra and Wadi Rum on days 3 and 4. The bus company I remember being called JETT, but there was no way to book online or anything like that! We managed to find their nearest outlet, thankfully close to our hotel, and bought our 3 lots of paper tickets and a hand drawn map of where the departure point will be… all of which pre-dated the concept of Race Across the World!

Image ^ The very modern Abdali Mall in Amman.

That evening we visited the nearby very modern shopping mall, complete with Christmas tree, for some food. One of the memories of the trip was the Szechuan chicken and rice dish I had from an outlet that evening, as it would completely ruin tomorrow…

Day Two – Jerash

Back before now where I’ll always carry an emergency Immodium or eight, that evening was terrible with S&D, which would continue to the next morning and a ride to the northern city of Jerash that we arranged with the hotel.

Jerash is 30 miles north of Amman so very accessible for a day trip. Apart from the drive to the ancient Roman city (known as Gerasa) we didn’t visit anything else here. Interestingly given it’s historical importance, I am surprised it is not in the top 10 largest cities in Jordan… a paltry 50,000 inhabitants compared to 4 million of Amman!

Image ^ Hadrian’s Arch in Jerash.

Nevertheless, it is second to only Petra in terms of visitor numbers.

I was really grateful that Mikayla chose to ditch me on a bench whilst she went to explore the site that had I felt more lively, would have been really interested in.

Image ^ Colonnaded Street in Jerash.

The sites to see in the archaeological city include two outside theatres, a well-preserved former fountain, remains of a cathedral, the oval plaza (I’m in the middle of this below), a hippodrome and Hadrian’s Arch (pictured above) built in year 129.

I especially liked the avenue of pillars “Colonnaded Street” also pictured above, obviously looking back not enough to get me to walk any further than absolutely necessary though. As it was, some time during these photos I was sick just out of the way of a coach load of tourists. That’s probably a criminal offense.

Image ^ Oval plaza in Jerash.

We almost certainly cut our trip short via the toilets for way too long. I could not wait to get back to my broken bed quick enough!

That evening, after several hours sleep, I did manage to venture out to the nearby King Abdullah I Mosque and Parliament buildings, delighted not to have any embarrassing experiences.

Image ^ Outside King Abdullah I mosque.
Image ^ Gift shop inside the King Abdullah I mosque.

Afterwards we again visited the shopping mall for an easy dinner. There was no way I was having anything other than a trusty McDonald’s tonight though, with an early bus to Petra waiting in the morning.

Day Three – Petra

Not recalling what time we set off for Petra, we arrived after the three-hour coach trip in the morning. There is a car park by a sizeable visitor centre on the edge of the small town where you get your tickets.

Image ^ Walking through the valley to a wonder of the world.

Upon entry, I think it was a good 25-35 minute walk between the valleys, itself rather picturesque. The walk (or donkey or camel if you prefer – they seemed well looked after) takes little effort knowing what you are walking towards, it was incredibly exciting, I’m surprised I took the time to take the photo below on the approach.

Image ^ Peaking at Petra.

Yes, you do get to see the main event straight off the bat but we spend most of the day walking around the site.

The Treasury is unsurprisingly one of the Wonders of the World, and perhaps the one that is most off the beaten track in terms of tourism. Indeed, looking at a reference way back in 2001 from New7Wonders Foundation it was 7th of seven. As a way of introducing a fun fact – it receives less than 10% of visitors compared to the 10 million per year Great Wall of China from multiple sources I have investigated.

If you were a 90’s kid like me, you probably thought of this photo from the Indiana Jones film The Last Crusade and had no idea it actually existed or where. Jordan wasn’t a country, it was Katie Price’s model name…

It is thought that The Treasury, or Al-Khazneh in Arabic, was built as a mausoleum and crypt at the beginning of the 1st century. Entrance is forbidden but I believe it is just an empty room through the door – that we know of.

Image ^ The money shot – The Treasury in Petra.

From here you take another narrow passageway to the right of the Treasury which eventually opens up to display more of the ancient city of Petra, with a few stalls and facilities.

Image ^ Facilities inside Petra.

As appealing as free Wifi and Gatorade may be, it was nothing compared to the rock faces surrounding the open plain that itself had some ruins. You could probably spend a week here searching every nook.

Image ^ Countless carvings into the rock at Petra.
Image ^ Nabatean theatre in Petra.

The Byzantine Church and Nabatean theatre were hard to miss, but we did annoying fail to walk out far enough to visit The Monastery or Ad Deir, which is Petra’s largest monument.

Image ^ Camels waiting for custom inside Petra.

A full day exploring a Wonder of the World will set you back 50 Jordanian Dollars or £60/US$70 each (2025 prices) and worth every grain of dirt or sand you set foot upon.

Following our long day, we had booked a LUXURIOUS – in comparison – hotel in Petra before continuing our trip onwards to the Wadi Rum dessert tomorrow. New Years Eve 2018 into NYD 2019 was spent in the Tetra Tree Hotel for just £54 a room plus £20 each for their New Years buffet and entertainment.

This was also our 10th year anniversary of being together!

Image ^ New Years Eve 2018 sunset in Petra, Jordan.

Magical. And we weren’t done yet!

Day Four – Wadi Rum

I must admit out of the whole trip, this half a day or so is the foggiest six years later. I recall bring very nervous at the Petra bus stop thinking “how on Earth are these coaches all going to arrive/depart on time” and we had very little idea where we will be without phone signal. The transport did turn up, with very little stress, and before we knew (or I remember) we were at the border of the Wadi Rum desert some two hours south of Petra.

A lot of the country is desert but this place did have a different feel about it. Proper in the middle of nowhere. At the border you kinda have to pay a toll to enter the site and in to a small village. I have no recollection of how we managed to get from there to our campsite, but I am assuming our hosts came to pick us up, arranged over a buffet lunch using Wifi.

Image ^ Row of sleeping tents at the Wadi Rum Baudouin campsite.

If you try looking for our camp for the night on Google Maps, don’t bother. There are dozens and the whole place looks the same! And there’s no sodding street address in site! Fun fact: to find this place on Google I used actual coordinates for the first time ever!

One night in the “Wadi Rum Baudouin Campsite” – does what it says on the tin eh? – cost just £64 for a tent and dinner. Looking now it is double the price for NYD 2026 but still so worth it. I’ve managed to find their own website (link) and notice they’ve refreshed the tents since 2018.

One thing we weren’t expecting, was the toilet and washing facilities, but they were spot on and shared with say max 20 other guests.

Image ^ Impressive facilities in the middle of a desert, at the campsite.

With the travel both to the desert, then onto camp, there weren’t a lot of daylight hours left. We climbed the small rock ahead of my very chilled feet on the picture below….

Image ^ Taking the Wadi Rum desert in from our tent.

… before climbing the rock at the rear of the campsite. Fun fact: The photo below is one of my favourite photo’s ever taken.

Image ^ View of our campsite in the Wadi Rum desert.

Here was also the site for this baby-faced partial bonk-eyed photo below. It has been my profile picture on most things for 5+ years I think. And now with much shorter (and silver coloured) hair, I’ll be clinging on to it for as long as I can!

Image ^ My profile picture for about 658 accounts even to this day.

With the sun now rapidly disappearing behind the horizon it was time for tea as we congregated with other guests in a big tent. We actually got to watch them place chicken pieces on racks into a hole into ground to cook and by the time we had some tea and checked our phones it was dinnertime!

Image ^ Our chicken for dinner being cooked underground.
Image ^ Inside the communal tent at the Baudouin campsite.

OK, I’m a lot less picky with food nowadays so would now have tried a bit of everything available, but it was still a pleasing offering (don’t worry this wasn’t the only plateful).

Image ^ Dinner at the Baudouin campsite.

After food and a fireside chat we headed back to our tent as daylight slowly faded. One thing I don’t mind not capturing were the stars that night. You can’t see many stars at home because of light pollution. There was no danger of light pollution in the middle of a desert. Nothing like I have ever seen before, so my crap 2018 camera phone would not have done it justice.

Image ^ The last bit of New Years Day sunlight in Wadi Rum desert.

Day Five – Wadi Run & Aqaba

After the second night’s good sleep on the trot, we enjoyed the simple but ample breakfast buffet before arranging a 4×4 tour with the hosts. We weren’t definitely going to do this, but so glad we did. The tour lasted around 6 hours and we split the cost with two Finnish people Netta and Toni that Mikayla still has as friends on Facebook.

Image ^ Me, Mikayla, our tour guide, Netta and Toni from Finland.

Before taking on this increasingly daunting task of this blog, I did often try and research specific places we visited on our desert tour. With Wadi Rum being a protected area covering 720 square kilometres, it is an impossible task that no doubt put me off several times. I’ll just try and blag it using a photo of a map I took at the time, but as you can see, the sights were plentiful, and outstanding.

Image ^ Entrance to Khazali Canyon in Wadi Rum desert.

Firstly we headed into a crevice of a rock formation. I think the photo makes it look more dangerous than it was. At the end there was a little spring with super clear water. I think it is called Khazali Canyon.

Image ^ A rock bridge in the Wadi Rum desert.
Image ^ View from the top of a rock bridge in Wadi Rum.

Next was this bizarre rock formation. It might not look it from the photo but it was a good 50 meters up and I was very proud I managed to get up there whilst the rest of the gang chilled in the little cafe.

Image ^ The entrance to Abu Khasaba Canyon.

Bizarre in a different way, next our driver dropped us off here, and told us he’d be waiting at the other side. I’m surpsied I found this on the map and believe it is called Abu Khasaba Canyon.

No problem we thought, until we found out the path actually involved a LOT of rock climbing and descending. Anyone ever watched 127 hours?

Image ^ Rock-climbing to get to the other side of Abu Khasaba canyon.

We met back up with our driver (who was later than us so a short spell of panic ensued!) and had lunch, I forget what it was, next to this mushroom looking rock…. which is called Mushroom Rock. Looking at recent photos online it doesn’t look quite the good nowadays.

Image ^ Mushroom Rock, Wadi Rum desert.

… whilst trying to take it ALLLLL in.

Image ^ Admiring the surroundings in Wadi Rum desert.

Our final stop before the camp return was to Lawrence’s House. Apparently this rock was a base for Lawrence of Arabia which was pretty cool. I took a few photos of these silly rock towers but I recall it was quite a large site with some caves etc.

Image ^ Lawrence of Arabia’s house.
Image ^ A view of the desert rocks from Lawrence’s House.

What a view. If you look closely you can pick out two jeeps to the left and at the bottom, our two Finnish pals and my girlfriend-turned-wife. Cute.

Image ^ Admiring the vast Wadi Rum landscape.

After we returned to camp to collect our bags and say our goodbyes, we had one final stop at Lawrence’s Spring. Over the years the locals have created a river down the rock to go into streets that feed the camels. Impressive, but all you get is photo of said camels.

Image ^ Camels having a break at Lawrence’s Spring, Wadi Rum.

And a tree, somehow thriving, in the middle of nowhere?!

Image ^ A sole tree in the dessert., Wadi Rum

Now that our jeep tour ended, we popped in to the village to pay for it (I think it was £50 each for two people, but £40 as we were a group of 4 and prices are similar today on their website).

Another blurry moment now sorry, getting from the desert border and onto Aqaba on the southern tip of Jordon.

Google Maps tells me this is only a one hour drive, which makes sense looking at the shadows in the tree photo above (hark at ol’ Bear Grylls over ‘ere….) as it was night-time once we arrive.

Fun Fact: The entirety of Jordan’s coastline is in the south, either side of Aqaba with a length of just 26 kilometres, but before 1965 their coast was a paltry SEVEN kilometres long. They struck a deal with neighbouring Saudi Arabia to obtain 6,000 square km extending the coast to the current length, handing over 7,000 square km in the trade.

Aqaba was something we had yet to experience, a very touristy hotspot, and not just for Jordanians given there was a Coronation Street themed bar literally over the road from the bus station!

Image ^ Aqaba beach on the Gulf of Aqaba.

I’m baffled as to why I took so few photos, even though we would only be here for a few hours. We had a chance to walk along the beach/promenade and back looking out at the extremely clear waters.

Image ^ The clear waters of the Jordanian coastline in Aqaba.

Perhaps a little embarrassingly, my favourite part of Aqaba was the absolute feast we had in a Turkish restaurant that evening as we hadn’t eaten since our minimal breakfast back in the desert. I can’t recall leaving anything(!) and afterwards we waited for our early morning bus back to Amman and our shithole apartment. Yay…

Image ^ Dinner after a long day in the desert.

Day Six – Sleep and Amman

I reckon our bus from Aqaba departed around 1am and we got back to Amman around 7am.

Today is going to be very short. After the bus we went to bed, waking up early afternoon in search for lunch on Rainbow Street. We chose this street because apparently it was “a vibrant and colourful hub nestled in the heart of Amman”, but in all honesty, it wasn’t that colourful or enticing after we had lunch.

Image ^ Rainbow Street in downtown Amman.

I can only think that we sorted out our trip to the Dead Sea tomorrow with the apartment that afternoon/evening before again choosing the shopping mall for tea (part of me thinks I stupidly had the Szechuan chicken again but I’m alive to tell the tale).

Mad that we did so little in a day, but we more than made up for it across the week.

Day Seven – Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea

Don’t worry folks this is the last proper day! But a good one.

I forget how much we paid for our hosts mate to drive us around today (under £100 I imagine)… whatever it was it was worth it as we’d not only get to visit the Dead Sea, but would enjoy a trip to Mount Nebo beforehand and a relaxing swim and buffet lunch too.

Image ^ Entrance to Mount Nebo.

Mount Nebo is only an hour’s drive from Amman and 700m above sea level. According to the bible, it is the place where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land before his death.

The place is well equipped for visitors with toilets, café bar and gift shops etc and you can also visit the Memorial Church of Moses here. I didn’t take any photo’s but recall it was kind of a modern external building but with considerable ancient remains inside. We managed to pick up a Christmas decoration here (we collect one from everywhere) and God, or Moses himself, only knows where else we would have been able to find one!

Image ^ The Brazen Serpent sculpture at Mount Nebo.

We were obviously attracted to the towering sculpture near one of the edges. I’m going to unapologetically steal a description of said sculpture… The Brazen Serpent is “symbolic of the miracle of the bronze serpent invoked by Moses in the wilderness (Numbers 21:4–9) and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified (John 3:14)“.

Just alongside the sculpture was a map in front of the panoramic view of said ‘promised land’. I found this really insightful and showed the significant of the area more than just a really good view.

Image ^ The Promised Land…

In total we only needed to spend an hour at Mount Nebo. We then hit the road for 30 minutes to the shores of the Dead Sea. The road was continuously downhill and winding if I remember.

Most accessible areas around the Dead Sea are privatised and for the best experience it is recommended that you pay for the privilege of getting close to the sea.

This area was nothing like I had imagined. I expected streets of hotels and bars etc along the shore but in reality you have hotels dotted around set back from the shore. Our driver played a blinder by choosing the Ramada Resort by Wyndham as this even offered a small bus to transfer you from hotel to sea. I found it bizarre that we had pretty much the whole area to ourselves and was able to “mud up” before washing off in the sea.

A REALLY cool fun fact: The Dead Sea is the lowest point on the Earth’s surface, at 414 meters below sea level. That’s a difference of 1,100 metres from Mount Nebo!

The reason it is called the “Dead” sea is due to the high levels of salt in the water, the highest of any body of water in the world. The result of this is that it is impossible for anything other than bacteria to survive.

During our half-our swim / float it was quite a surreal experience for me as an OK swimmer. If you lay flat on your back or front it is really difficult to move your legs under the water to stand up straight! In comparison, Mikayla, who is a novice swimmer at best, was more than happy to just float around knowing it would have been impossible to sink! Good fun.

Image ^ Swimming… floating rather… in the Dead Sea.

The cherry on top of the trip was having our muddy salty selves transported back to the hotel for an outsider shower and a more normal swim in the swimming pool. Admittedly it was the 3rd January but I expected to share the area with more than two other guests.

Image ^ A relaxing chill in the pool after our Dead Sea visit.

After a relaxing hour here, we moved in to the restaurant for an impressive buffet lunch offering before driving back to Amman.

After we arranged our transfer to the airport tomorrow, I’m really at a loss as to what he had for tea on our last night. It would have been nice to go somewhere traditional and memorable, but we didn’t, and if I had to guess I’d say we headed back to the bloody shopping mall!

Day 8 – Jordan to Home

Today was simply an early morning flight direct back to London via Istanbul. Apparently I didn’t take any photos so can only assume everything went to plan! Having now visited both Istanbul airports SAW is a lot cheaper than IST!

Things we didn’t do…

I am glad we hit all of the top sights (Petra, Wadi Rum and Dead Sea) whilst adding a bit of Amman, Aqaba and Jerash, plus the visit to Mount Nebo, which mangled together, made Jordan one of our best trips ever. As I’m writing this in August 2025, it’s even up there with our mammoth South American honeymoon (you can read this here).

If we had another day we would have looked at visiting Israel, but as our itinerary was loosely planned already we didn’t look into this much. This obviously would not be encouraged in 2025 and it’s also worth noting that you may experience difficulties at border control in many middle-eastern countries with an Israeli stamp in your passport.

I would have liked to explore Amman a bit more, which would have been achieved if either our digs were centrally located or I wasn’t ruled out for so long hugging the toilet!

Thanks for reading!

Brussels, Belgium – June 2025

Thanks for visiting my THIRD blog of Brussels! As with my blog in 2022 (not much to it but link here), I will start of by saying for a better(ish) overview of the city, refer to my post in August 2018 (link here) as although we were only there for less than a day, my wife and I did more touristy stuff than I have the past two times watching the football! Nothing to do with beer, obviously.

However, if it’s the tribulations of another short Wales away football match you’re after, I hope I can entertain.

Image ^ My favourite photos from the trip!

Costs

As with Macedonia in March, my pal Peter sorted this out. As much as we’re a bit fed up playing Belgium, Brussels has to be one of the easiest places to get to for such occasion.

As we were travelling from London we agreed to take the car and park a 15-minute walk from St Pancras International at a cost of £60 each including fuel. An added bonus was a mini tour of London, going past Hyde Park, Harrods, Natural History Museum, British Library and Piccadilly Circus to name but a few.

Image ^ Piccadilly Circus ft. lady who wants to get run over

We travelled Sunday morning to Tuesday evening and used the Eurostar to get across the Channel. The train cost £108 return which was great value. Prices do go up and down but it’s an enjoyable ride, with the ability to also travel to Paris, Lille or Amsterdam from London Kins Cross / St Pancras.

Image ^ St Pancras International

Our hotel, Hotel Expo was on the outskirts of the city, but importantly across the road from the stadium and cost £205 a room for two nights including breakfast, albeit the rooms were tiny. Can’t be far off a very good deal in Brussels and the location was ideal for after the match.

Other costs, general spending money on food, drinks, beers, luggage storage and the metro I estimated about another £150 so not too expensive at around £450 all in including the £33 match ticket.

Itinerary

Day One

Following on from the drive to London, walk to St Pancras, Eurostar to Brussels and Metro, we arrived at our hotel around 7pm. This gave us enough time for a short rest in the hotel and dump the bags before getting the Metro in to the City Centre for a late dinner.

Image ^ The view from our hotel entrance

I do wonder what brings tourists to Brussels. Obviously it is one of the main centres of Europe and has excellent transport links. I just find the place to welcome people for a day or so before they make their onward travels. The central streets are great for a stroll around for a full day, but activities wise the capital city of Belgium is lacking in my opinion.

Image ^ A typical city centre street in Brussels

For dinner, we cashed in on a reservation I made five months prior in JANUARY following a video from Cheap Holiday Expert! Restaurant Mozart (link) is based a few minutes away from the central square and offers all you can eat ribs for €25. Right up our alley after a long days travel. The ribs come in a variety of flavours and come with fries and the most spectacular jacket potato I have ever tasted, thanks to whatever sauce it was on top.

Image ^ Endless ribs at Restaurant Mozart

After just two and a half racks of ribs I was spent. The restaurant also serves their homemade wine that you pay for by the centimetre, but I passed on that opportunity to be fresh for a long match day tomorrow.

Day Two

I really should reconsider early starts when I have a day drinking ahead of me in future, but today I was up at 6am for a planned bike trip around the Atomium and parks that were nearby. I purposely chose a pushbike to get a bit of much needed exercise in, and spent a good 45 minutes aimlessly following paths around Laeken park, which was pleasant but not as picturesque as I thought. For some reason the whole park is blurred out on Google Maps, but I can assure you it was not Area 51.

Image ^ Proof of exercise, before I swapped over to an eScooter!

Arriving back at the Atomium, I was content with my pedal and, straight back to being lazy, swapped my bike with an eScooter to lap around the park and back to the hotel in time for breakfast. Much quicker and much more fun!

Fun fact: The Atomium is regularly the top of most must-see lists in Brussels and one of Belgium’s most famous landmarks, originally constructed as the centrepiece of the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair. The balls look so small but each has its own museum or exhibition inside. I’m still none the wiser how you actually get between spheres as I simply don’t think I’d fit in those interlinking tubes!!

Fun fact: There’s was this weird copyright law around images of the structure, even if you take a phot yourself. For yours a specific Belgian Association of authors, composers and publishers claimed intellectual property rights of the images, that was only lifted in 2016. How they would police that, suing a teenager on a school trip from I dunno, Massachusetts, for lobbing a photo on his Insta is anyone’s guess.

Image ^ The Atomium in its early morning glory

We did intend to visit the Atomium this morning after breakfast, it’s about £15 to enter, but after a slow start leaving the hotel we decided to head in to the city centre.

Our first port of call was to show Pete where the Mannekin Pis statue/fountain is, along one of the maze of narrow streets. Another one of Brussels most visited spots, of a boy having a wee, which to be honest is completely underwhelming. A fun fact would be that he has over 1,000 costumes, but that pushing fun even for this page.

Image ^ Mannekin Pis

Certainly the focal point of Brussels is the main square “Grand Place” with some incredible architecture on all four sides. In 2018 we were lucky to visit during the a biennial event where the Grand Place is covered with a massive tapestry of flowers, but today we were treated to a few marching bands and selfie sticks galore. The centre piece of the square pictured is the gothic style town hall, and where the above photo was taken was where we settled for a beer .

Image ^ Grand Place

As the waiter brought us our 11am beers, I had an immediate sense of deja-vu and immediately started scrolling through my socials and my 2022 blog post, and as expected, I was having the same beer in the same bar, wearing the same shirt as three years ago.

Image ^ 2025 v 2022 where did it all go wrong…

I did take some consoling over how much older I look in just three years, not to mention my heair (welling up just typing this guys) so the only cure was to pick up our match tickets from a nearby hotel and continue with the beers.

Image ^ Looking out on Place de la Bourse that would soon become party central

As for previous matches, the Welsh fans congregated in Place de la Bourse where there were a few bars and an Irish pub blaring out Cymru anthems. A loud, boozy, but completely friendly party atmosphere that presented no harm to locals or tourists.

After a few pints of Stella, remarkably cheaper than expected at €6 a pint, Pete went for his usual pre-match siesta whilst I met up with a few fellow Newport County supporters. When the queues got too long many people just popped in the nearby off-licences. I recall picking up 4 knock off Desperados and 6 alcopops in lieu of cider as the shelves were becoming increasingly empty!

Image ^ The County massive!

Still, but 7pm it was time to catch the metro to the stadium, a good half an our away plus a walk to our entrance.

Image ^ Metro mingling

Given the queues getting in to the ground with 3,000+ other Welsh fans, I was pleased to have picked up a can of Stella for the commute with still plenty of time before kick off.

Image ^ Cymru fans waiting to enter the stadium

The game itself…. what to say!

There was a lot of confidence in the stands before kick off after an unbeaten start to Craig Bellamy’s introduction to management, although this would be by far the biggest test. Things did not go to plan as we were stuffed 3-0 inside the opening 27 minutes, just for Wales to score through a Harry Wilson penalty before the break to make it 3-1 at half time, a goal I actually missed to get a bottle of bloody water of all things.

The second half, or at least 37 minutes of it, was the most intense and enjoyable away game I’ve had watching Wales, noting I’m still a relative newbie who missed some of the epic matches at Euro 2016. Sorba Thomas and Brennan Johnson scored for Wales to make it 3-3 by the 70th minute – you cannot imagine the scenes and pints being thrown when the equaliser went in (some bloke actually fell from the second tier but had only minor injuries) under Kevin de Bruyne, the poor mans Aaron Ramsey, took advantage of sloppy defending on 88 minutes to give Belgium victory.

Final score: Belgium 4, Wales 3

Image ^ The match at King Baudouin Stadium

After the game the atmosphere within the Welsh fans was one of pride and relative happiness. Looking at the Belgium team with names like Doku, Lukaku, Tielemans and Trossard it was a bloody good effort. I enjoyed a few more pints and some food in bars near the ground before the two minute walk back to the hotel.

Day Three

I’d had worse hangovers but still sacked off breakfast for an extra hour sleep in the morning, so by the time we headed out and popped or luggage in a locker at the Eurostar station I was up for another walk around.

Image ^ Royal-Saint Hubert arcade

There wasn’t much to do but to buy my wife some Belgian chocolates from the very posh looking Royal Saint-Hubert arcade, where if my wife asks they didn’t have anything under €100.

I had steak and chips for a stomach-settling lunch whilst Pete had a bucket mussels (no ta) and via a stop at a waffle shop, and a calorific sugar rush that followed, we made our way back to the station to embark on our journey home.

Image ^ Heart attack trays

Thankfully the journey home was unproblematic and we arrived in Newport by 11pm. A productive 2.5 days.

I have promised myself that I will put more effort in to Brussels the next time. They do have loads of important EU buildings that I’ve only glanced at previously, and if all else fails there are a few football grounds to visit or a day trip to Bruges under an hour away. That’s for next time though.

Image ^ The sign you’re nearly home

Thanks for reading. See you next time for Madrid in August with the wife!

Skopje, North Macedonia & Pristina, Kosovo – March 2025

Thanks for visiting my first Wales football blog of 2025! The destination was North Macedonia, which is a new country for me and I think the 49th in total, with the day trip to Kosovo being number bloody five-zero!

Macedonia, officially North Macedonia (we’ll come on to that) is a Country in the Balkans, formerly part of Yugoslavia. It is landlocked and bordered by just the five countries; Greece, Albania, Kosovo, Serbia and Bulgaria. It has a population of 1.8 million with around a third of these living in the capital Skopje. It is not in the EU and has the Denar as its currency.

The trip was Monday to Friday with the football match on Tuesday.

Image ^ My top 9 photos from the trip!

Costs

I travelled with my friend again for this trip who was designated planner (give me a break I’ve already been to 4 places in France and Istanbul since Christmas). He did a splendid job sorting return flights from Heathrow for £212 each. We did have to stop at Frankfurt going and Zurich coming back but that did break up the otherwise 4 hour flight.

The four-star Queens Hotel costs around £150 each for 4 nights including a simple but satisfactory breakfast. It was around 15 minutes walk to the main square, opposite a bus stop and had a supermarket underneath.

Public transport was cheap. The one time we caught the bus it cost about 40p. A ten minute taxi was around £3 but the city sights are all within walking distance of each other.

Food at restaurants was very good value. A bottle of local Skopso beer was £1.50 or £2.50 centrally. Cigarettes £3 a pack. I went a whole bloody week without fast food so couldn’t price up a Burger King or KFC, but that does lead me in to my first fun fact: there are no McDonald’s in the country!

Ummm, what else? We caught Flixbus to Heathrow and the taxi from Skopje airport to centre was 1000 denar, thirteen quid to you and me. The ticket cost for the game were either £4 or £13. What a nice surprise.

Important health update for fans

Avid readers or those who tripped over my recent Istanbul blog in February will remember my foot had been a proper five digit fuckhead since January which almost ruined Turkiye for me. I still struggled the week leading up to this trip but you’ll be delighted to know my right Plantar Fascia was okay. I took my walking stick… FML… with me most days but it was 90% precautionary and in total over the full three days I probably achieved 50,000 steps.

Itinerary

Day One – Home to Skopje

I’ll keep days 1 and 5 short as we’re all adults who know what an aeroplane is and what a twat the whole process can be.

9:30am bus to Heathrow, fully recovered from the electrical outage the Friday before and quieter than my usual experience.

We flew with Lufthansa and had spare seats next to us on BOTH legs. An absolute dream! Just a quick note about Lufthansa. Obviously having a spare seat next to me was paradise beyond the airlines control, but how nice to have a complimentary bottle of water and mini Lindt chocolate bar! I’d be a kidney lighter having that on WizzAir…

It didn’t feel like a long day but we arrived at our hotel at 11pm and there is only an hour time difference. That didn’t stop us bumping into a couple of other Welsh fans who easily tempted us to go for a beer in a bar just up the road. The local lager hit the spot. One turned into three but all very sensible.

Image ^ Testing the local lager after a long day travelling.

I already mapped out that food was unlikely, so felt proper chuffed with myself unpacking a Bombay Badboy Pot Noodle out of my bag for supper!

Day Two – Skopje and match day!

Instead of scheduled rain it was a lovely sunny morning as we enjoyed breakfast on the roof terrace, heading out around 10am to ensure I had ample time for getting drunk after the touristy stuff!

Before we could catch the bus in to the centre we had to get cash from an ATM and then get some change. Easy with a supermarket and soft drinks nearby.

Fun fact: I was horrified that my otherwise fabulous “Nothing” brand of phone was not compatible with an eSIM. The plan was to get a card over there, but as the morning went on I didn’t bother. Then as the week went on it, my point is that it was actually rather liberating not to have notifications every two minutes. I did have the odd catch up in restaurants and Pete had his hotspot for emergencies, but I did honestly enjoy putting my phone away throughout most of the day!

Anyway. Bus. A very old, stinky, busy scrap of metal but did get us to where we wanted to go! Still, it was the first and last of the trip!

Image ^ A very quiet street in the Old Bazaar

The Old Bazaar (kinda like a market area) was a must visit although very quiet first thing in the morning, bearing in mind it was still Ramadan. The plan was to pass through here and walk up hill to Skopje fortress in the hope of some good pictures.

Image ^ View of the Toše Proeski Arena

It certainly didn’t disappoint as even before the entrance one could see the stadium in all it’s glory and looked very impressive. We’ll be seeing you again later.

Image ^ Skopje fortress
Image ^ Skopje city centre from fortress with Vodno mountain in background

The fortress was not exactly Kings Landing but it was free and useful to map out other parts of the city centre. There was also a small bar here that slowly filled up with Cymru fans having the same idea of a midday beer or two. Lovely.

Image ^ Cymru fans enjoying a midday beer

We continued back through the Bazaar, now much busier, and to the main square, passing not one but two statues of Alexander the Great.

Image ^ Statue 1 of Alexander the Great

Fun fact: Alexander the Great is not Greek. In fact don’t mention the G word. He is Macedonian, at least according to the locals. Apparently the statue upset Greece, which leads me on to another…

The centre of Skopje is truly bizarre! A previous leader had an idea of Project Skopje 2014 and turn the place into a tourist hotspot, by erecting new buildings but making them look old. In total he placed dozens of statues and 13 buildings. This REALLY pissed off the locals given the cost and considering the Macedonian public services could have benefited immensely instead from this cash. If you don’t laugh you’d cry and whilst I don’t think I have any great photo’s, they did indeed look bloody ridiculous. Ten year old buildings trying to look like 100 year buildings!

In sympathy, to maybe see where he was coming from, Skopje was flattened in the 1960s by an earthquake, which saw a huge 80% of it’s buildings collapse. I just think the unjustified cost of his plans leapfrogged any good intentions.

Image ^ Vardar River running through Skopje

Walking over the old Stone Bridge, which I believe is older than say, a fortnight (lolz), we bumped into a friend at the main square before collecting our match ticket from a nearby hotel.

Image ^ Great Alex statue two

I left the lunch decision to Pete. I just fancied a burger at most before getting on the beers, I felt rather “meh” about going to a nice Macedonian restaurant but OH MY GOD it was so good I’d end up having exactly the same meal the next day! The place is called Old House (link).

A T-bone pork joint with fries, salad, garlic bread and a drink came to about 16 quid. Just look at the size of it….

Image ^ Light lunch

Miraculously by the time we made the short walk back in to the centre, plus a few Marlboro Gold’s, I could stomach a beer and as Pete went back to the hotel for his regular match day siesta I went in search of some booze!

Image ^ A drop of the local tipple

I was blessed not only to meet up with some fellow Newportonians but also newfound friends from gogledd Cymru and really enjoyed many a beer and a few sing songs before the game. One of the best parts, so I take very few photos!

Roll on three hours. I did lose said pals on the way to the ground in search of some cigarettes, but after 12 pints or so the independent walk to the ground was a mix of an experience, both quite fun and challenging (no mobile data for maps remember). I’m not naming names but if this was another Balkan country or two I’d be shitting myself. It’s a good job my wife never reads this stuff…

Image ^ Minute silence before kick off

Watching the football match was never in doubt and I re-joined Pete before kick off for the anthems, and a minute silence for the poor souls that lost their lives in a Macedonian night club fire just a few weeks prior.

Image ^ Y Wal Goch ❤

The game itself, at the time I thought was very disappointing for a match I took for granted Wales would win.

The game to life right at the end of the game after Joe Allen, the living Jesus, of all people, gifted a Macedonia goal, only for Wales through Dai Brooks to comically equalise in the 90th plus whatever minute (highlight link).

Image ^ Toše Proeski Arena

I need to comment on the ABSOLUTELY SHIT hospitality in the ground. No beer, no food, not even bottled water! This was in the posh seats.

Fun (depressing) fact: I STOLE a bottle of open water off a stewards desk at half time, I was that parched. I wonder how such occurrences can be allowed (not the stealing bit) but that’s UEFA for you…

Image ^ Hospitality…

Feeling knackered after a long day, twinned with being trapped in the stadium with zero facilities, loo roll inclusive, I didn’t really have the mantra for beers after the match. Therefore, Peter and I walked back to the hotel in search of food, that was not forthcoming. You’ve got 30,000 people in a stadium and food outlets closed and hour beforehand. FML. 24 hour shop for crisps and chocolate and bed. I could have murdered another Pot Noodle…

Day Three – Vodno Mountain and Lake Matka

After a chilled breakfast we headed back to the fortress before our half-day trip in the afternoon. We had time to kill so wandered around the vicinity. I took a great interest in a nearby caravanserai named Kursumli An, as I had been playing the Assassin’s Creed Mirage video game set in Iraq where they were prominent. A caravanserai is kind of like an old fashioned motel and service station.

Image ^ Outside the Kursumli An caravanserai

This building dated back to the 16th century and had since been a prison before just left to dilapidate. I thought it would make a great hotel and in such a prominent location.

Image ^ A peek inside the Kursumli An caravanserai

What made it more frustrating to allow such a dwelling to fall into disrepair, was the fact that the “Museum of Macedonia lay only 100 metres away, in this concrete eyesore of a building that was supposed to resemble some type of old v modern middle-ground. The museum itself was closed, well, I assume it was because we couldn’t even find it, just a smattering of office workers walking around at lunchtime.

Time to go on our day trip I think.

We booked through Viator (link here) a half-day tour to Matka Canyon and Vodno Mountain. At £25 each, this was great value for money. I think we had to pay about a quid for the cable car (£24 cheaper than Dubrovnik and 3 times longer) and around €9 for a boat trip at the canyon/lake to visit the Vrelo Cave.

Image ^ Cable car overlooking Skopje

The three minibuses was full with other Welsh supporters and it took a good 30 minutes to meander up the mountain to reach the point where we could catch the cable car. The guide was really good too, giving a history of Macedonia, why to them it is NOT North Macedonia and why they are not that fond of the Greeks.

Ooooh, maybe I can introduce a new section. A history lesson, but by me? A Christory lesson if you will. A really to the point, citations probably needed, half-arsed couple of sentences to cover centuries of historical importance.

Christory lesson: Why is Macedonia called North Macedonia and not just Macedonia, or where is south Macedonia?

Well kids, the area of Macedonia is actually a large area that covers North Macedonia and a large section of Greece. Today, Macedonia is a former administrative region in Greece that includes the prominent city of Thessaloniki. In fact, the region is considered to include parts of six countries, namely all of North Macedonia, large parts of Greece and Bulgaria, and smaller parts of Albania, Serbia, and Kosovo.

When admitted into the United Nations in 1993, Greece kicked off about the use of “Republic of Macedonia” which resulted in the place called “Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia” before the two sides both agreed on The Republic of North Macedonia in 2019.

I did make some notes about some other interesting bits, but as I’m writing this part in June, I’ve since deleted them. Top blogger.

Image ^ Skopje panorama

The top of Vodno mountain provided a superb panorama of the city and we were told that on a clear day Greece, Albania and Kosovo are all in view. Still no sign of my dignity though after pinching that bottle of water last night.

Image ^ The Millennium Cross on top of Vodno Mountain

Built in 2002, at 66 metres high, the cross is one of the largest of it’s kind in the word according to Wikipedia. What that doesn’t tell you is that you can actually see the cross lit up from as far away as the Kosovo border some 20 plus kilometres away. You’ll see a really shit photo as proof if you keep scrolling to tomorrow…

Image ^ Antenna Tower of the Agency for Electronic Communication under construction.

In progress was a new eyesore next to the Millennium Cross. I was very interested in how on earth they can build such a structure up here. To be honest though, I did think it got in the way of the main attraction. After some research, this monstrosity is going to be the Antenna Tower of the Agency for Electronic Communication, which will be the tallest building in Macedonia at 155 meters. twice the hight of the cross.

Image ^ View to the south of Macedonia

The mountain top views did not end there. Peter called me over to peek over the… peak… towards the south facing side, to be treated with perhaps my pick of the trip photos.

Image ^ Church of Saint Panteleimon, Skopje

Before heading to the canyon we had a quick pitstop at the Church of Saint Panteleimon up in the hillside, a small 12th-century Byzantine monastery constructed in 1164. I didn’t choose to go inside, instead entertaining the sheep outside (not like that lads) but a fun fact is that the Church is on the back of the Macedonian Denar banknotes.

Image ^ Matka Dam

45 minutes drive from Vodno, our drop off location to access Lake Matka was a good mile away and whilst I didn’t necessarily need my walking aid I wasn’t gutted that I brought it with me! The route was flat albeit with an incline to rise to the top of the dam. I don’t see many dams and concluded that I find them rather impressive. Hoover Dam will be ticked off at some point I’m sure, fingers crossed.

Image ^ Lake Matka

As the lake opened up there was an opportunity to take a boat ride to some caves, or stay in the restaurant. Pete opted for coffee and cake whilst I headed out on to the water with most of the other tourists in our minibuses. It would have been great if the weather was a bit nicer but nevertheless the 20 minute ride was quite relaxing, in preparation for undoubtedly some going up and down at the cave.

Image ^ Vrelo Cave off Lake Matka

Once we departed the boat we had to wait for the driver to power up a generator that would light our path in to the cave. There were some 100 steps to the cave entrance, 100 down in to the cave and vice-versa on the way back. The cave was quite cool but something that could be missed if you can’t be bothered with the steps or confined spaces. Whilst a very low budget experience this positional lighting made a difference. 9 Euro was about right.

Image ^ Lake Matka

A relaxing cruise back to the restaurant later and the mile-long trek back to the buses (which felt like three know the fun concluded).

Image ^ Waste of an orange on my Baklava!

Once back in Skopje, my preference was to revisit the restaurant we had lunch at yesterday. I had exactly the same meal, with the addition of some baklava to finish. Two massive plates of food, sharing salad, side of garlic bread, two desserts, one beer, two cokes and a shot of vodka for forty quid. Diolch yn fawr Bois.

Image ^ Glad to be fluent in Macedonian at this point

Day Four – Kosovo Day Trip

27th March 2025 was the day that I reached my 50 country milestone. It was really annoying that I assumed I was on 49 until the journey home to Wales, thinking that my upcoming trip to Kazakhstan or a neighbouring country would take the acclaim. I forgot the wonderful country of Slovenia off my list, even more annoying as it does have its own blog post!

To book our day trip, we used the same company Skopje Daily Tours as we did from yesterday’s trip, albeit by contacting them directly to save a few quid. We perhaps could have squeezed them a bit more as they wouldn’t have to give Viator a sizeable cut, but we were content paying £90 each for the bonus of a tour guide and a comfortable people-carrier, enjoying the day with two other Welsh fans and without my bloody walking stick!

There are several daily public buses/coaches that make the journey to Pristina and I priced these up at £20 each return. If I were travelling alone I would have chosen this option, but the organised trip was significantly less hassle. As a corollary, the tour guide and second stop at Prizren were additions I would have otherwise have missed.

Image ^ Border control between Kosovo and North Macedonia.

Meeting in central Skopje for an early 9am start, we were told the border crossing can get busy at times but thankfully the queue for cars was flowing and it took no more than ten minutes, noticing the queue for 50+ lorries were very close to blocking access to the roundabouts leading up.

Image ^ Kosovo national football stadium

It would have been a wasted opportunity not to get close to the national stadium, should I not come here to watch Wales in the future, so I was delighted when we parked up in the vicinity of the stadium. The tour guide was certainly perplexed over our interest in the paltry 14,000 capacity Fadil Vokrri Stadium.

Next up was, what I believe to be, the number 1 tourist attraction in Kosovo, the Newborn monument. Although it is by far the greatest spectacle, its meaning bears much more weight, being unveiled on 17 February 2008, the day that Kosovo formally declared its independence from Serbia. To give it a bit of jazz the artwork is changed every year on the anniversary. As of 2025 Kosovo is the second newest country in the world (after South Sudan, 2011).

Image ^ Newborn Monument

Just a few meters up the road from the Newborn monument was a statue of Madeleine Albright, Secretary of State for the second term of Clinton’s presidency 1997-2001. She advocated for NATO intervention to protect Kosovo Albanians from the violence perpetrated by Serbian forces under Slobodan Milošević. It’s safe to say without this intervention, the country may not exist today, with over 90% of the population ethnic Albanians.

Image ^ Statue of Madeleine Albright

Next we made a visit to the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa. It was only a couple of Euro to visit the left bell tower.

Image ^ Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa

The next two photos I think show a good contrast of pre and post independence. A cluster of high-rise buildings populate one area of the City with more continuously being constructed, with plentiful American investment. The other picture shows the old town, which is where we’d be heading shortly.

Image ^ Testing

That very strange building to the right of the photo is actually the National Library and not something from a Crystal Maze zone. We did pop in there but unfortunately it didn’t look anywhere near as interesting on the inside. Just past the library is a church that was never finished. It doesn’t look far off I’m surprised it’s just left there, although it was meant to be a Serbian Orthodox Church… so in that case I’m surprised it’s still there at all!

Image ^ National Library in front of the Old Town part of Pristina

Walking to our next stop we passed several mosques, many of which make up the oldest buildings in the City. I did find it bizarre why you would have three places of worship within 150 metres of each other, but then within a half-mile radius of my workplace back home there must be at least a dozen Churches.

Writing this part now four moths after the visit, I had to do some digging to find out where we went to next. Thankfully I’m quite good at using maps to retrace my steps and can tell you that we visited the small Ethnological Museum. In the museum, tools and items related to lifestyle from the Ottoman Kosovo period are on display. It was very St. Fagan’s like and although the ten minute tour was interesting, it was not something I would make a detour for.

Image ^ Ethnological Museum, Pristina

By the time we walked back to the car, through the main street of bustling shops and cafe’s (desperate for a wee, thanks Burger King) it was time to head out of the city. Another peculiar top-tourist spot in the city was a stature of the aforementioned Bill Clinton, that I just managed to snap whilst passing in the car.

Image ^ Bill Clinton stuatue, Pristina

It was a 90-minute drive away to Prizren. This is the second largest City in Kosovo but seemed significantly small when parking up in the old town. The four of us enjoyed a banquet lunch that consisted of a huge meat platter that we couldn’t finish. I recall being quite agitated in the restaurant, the name of which I won’t bother mentioning. I had a nap in the car on the way here, thus groggy, was rushing to make the most of the Wifi and message my wife, both of which were exacerbated by the waiter taking the piss because I didn’t want a beer with my lunch. I know turning down a beer is not my usual mantra but this geezer really wound me up!

Image ^ Old Stone Bridge, Prizren

Resting bitch face been and gone, we walked along the river and a few buildings and monuments important to the history, but truth be told there weren’t a great deal to do. You can see a Citadel at the top of the hill but that wasn’t part of the day. The amount of plastic running down the river certainly took away from the picturesque nature of the area and the weather was now miserable as we made it to a café just in time before the heavens opened.

Image ^ Skopje’s Millenium Cross seen from the Kosovo border.

The drive home was without incident and the tour guide was nice enough to drop us off at the hotel. For our final dinner of the trip, at a place within walking distance from our hotel, I thought I would be a smartarse and order some fish for a change. As someone who prefers their fish boneless, battered or in a tin, it ticked none of the boxes and I’d still be picking the skeleton out now if I didn’t give up half way through. The salad and chips were nice though, as was the live music. For me though, I was ready to go home after a very pleasant few days.

Image ^ The last supper!

Day Five – Skopje to Home

This will be quick. Our flight was at 9am so we were out of the hotel by 6:30am. Two hours to Zurich. Hour transfer. 90 minutes to Heathrow. Zurich airport was a bit shit efficiency wise (thought they are supposed to be good at that stuff??) but no qualms.

Flixbus home. Pint in the local. The end.

Thanks for reading!
ANOTHER trip to Brussels awaits in June…

Istanbul, Türkiye – February 2025

Hello and welcome to my first blog post of 2025 (technically haven’t finished France at the end of December 2024 yet but hey-ho you obviously weren’t bothered about that!)

Mikayla had wanted to go to Istanbul for some time. Although I had been to Türkiye, a lesser known seaside city of Samsun in 2023 for the Welsh football (link here), I know the biggest city would be very different!

I am going to have a go at significantly reducing the word count, at least for this blog. I have been falling in to the trap of not writing about my trips soon enough due to time constraints (the pub) thus forgetting some good stuff. The initial section may remain quite text heavy but in terms of the itinerary think bullet points, not paragraphs Christopher!

Image ^ Our TOP 9 from the trip!

Istanbul is by far the biggest city in Türkiye with over 15 million persons. A few points on this. The country stopped using “Turkey” in 2021. Although the largest, Istanbul is not the capital city of the country – Ankara is, which is more central with under 6 million inhabitants.

Istanbul is famous for many things, but of interest is that, where the city is split in two by the Bosphorus Straight, it’s commonly regarded that one half of the city is in Europe, the other in Asia. I didn’t really see any difference in culture etc between the two. Istanbul was slightly more “Westernised” than I anticipated, similar to our memories of Amman in Jordan.

The trip was good value for money as FLIGHTS during February half-term in Wales were around £75 each from Bristol, Monday to Friday. The Orient Express by Orka Hotels (see NOTE 1 below) was a great location and walking distance (see NOTE 2) to the central tourist hotspot of Sultanahmet Square, costing £60 per night for two with breakfast and use of the sauna and tiny pool in the basement.

NOTE 1 – This wasn’t the HOTEL we booked. We originally booked the Royal Orka Hotel and Spa down the road but due to a ‘security’ issue we were shown to one of their sister hotels two minutes up the road. Looking at the photos I reckon the initial hotel would have been a bit nicer, but it didn’t impact our stay, and was probably more convenient when you consider note 2…

NOTE 2 – I had struggled for a few weeks before visiting with a recurring foot problem that decided to reinvigorate itself on the flight over. I’ll try to mention this as little as possible but to summarise it was the worst pain I’ve experienced outside of home EVER. At the worst it took me 15 minutes to walk 120 meters on day three. Good job the hotel was that little bit closer to the tram! After aimlessly looking for a walking aid for two days we finally had the epiphany of asking the hotel reception where we could buy one, to be told they had a spare crutch in lost property! Relief and FML in unison.

Image ^ Orient Express by Orka Hotels

GETTING AROUND was good (foot aside) once we understood how to get a 3-day ticket from the machine. Costing about £20 each I don’t think this was the cheapest option but we made it good value. This covers buses, trams, metro, public boat crossings, trains that go a little further afield and another type of ‘Marmaray’ train I didn’t quite get but similar to the Metro. We didn’t use an Uber once after the airport. Google maps worked OK but didn’t integrate the different methods of public transport as well as hoped.

COSTS on the whole were a little bit cheaper than in the UK. Bottled drinking water very cheap. For £10 in an American fast-food joint you could get loads. Entrance to the sights were significantly more expensive than expected… so much so we didn’t pay for them.

I’ll include more costs further in the post. All in with things like airport parking, hold luggage and the like we were glad to have some change from £800!

Shall we crack on with the intenerary?

Day 1 – Getting to Istanbul

Flew from Bristol late afternoon arriving around 8pm. Already mentioned my foot. Istanbul (IST) airport is bloody ages away from the City and even if I were fit I would have still paid £35 for a 45 minute Uber/taxi.

Changed hotels, by now it was around 11pm so we sacked off tea and had an early night.

There… that was quick, wasn’t it?

Image ^ View from our hotel, a few minutes from Gülhane tram stop.

Day Two – Blue Mosque and not much else!

After a basic breakfast we obtained some cash from an ATM and figured out the travel pass. Just one stop from our hotel was where to get off for Sulanahmet Square housing the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern.

It was early on we understood I wouldn’t be doing anything quickly today (perhaps all week) but we did wish to see the Blue Mosque, high up on every must-see list. This was also free as long as you can shake off the odd friendly chap in the square with an ulterior motive (i.e. trying to flog you a carpet).

We timed the visit really well, just before the Mosque was closing for tourists during prayer. I was the last one allowed in but that had nothing to do with the four minutes and extreme amount of pain it took to take my bloody shoe off! Although otherwise of course I was happy to do so.

Image ^ Blue Mosque

Inside the Mosque was impressive. I have a tendency not to be too extravagant with the description of religious buildings… Jeez I don’t want to think how many Churches I’ve been to as an unreligious person… so I hope the pictures can do the work for me here.

Image ^ Inside Blue Mosque

After finding a stable place to re-shoe-up, it was time for a recovery sit down, one of about seven thousand today. The benefit on this occasion was a mid morning snack featuring a 50p cob of sweetcorn with salt. I miss them already.

Image ^ 50p sweetcorn as a snack with some snow and a doggy in the background

Fun fact: It’s hard to see it in any of my photos but today there were still piles of SNOW dotted around from a recent downfall. Snow in Turkiye?!? (albeit February). There’s a joke somewhere about assuming frozen Turkey was more a December event but let’s not….

Image ^ Sultanahmet Square. It really was that gloomy not just my shoddy photo-editing!

Following our short trip down the road to the Mosque we decided to try our luck on the Metro, primarily to do something where I could primarily sit down! Our planned itinerary was already unravelling on the first full day so we chose to visit an area on the Asian side of the City and a football ground that is currently home to Jose Mourinho, namely Fenerbahce. Google Maps told me there was a bus that would take us closer to the ground but I really couldn’t be arsed.

Image ^ Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium, home of Fenerbahçe football club. From the Metro stop!

It was approaching late-lunchtime now and being a little at a loss, noted a large shopping mall near a stop returning to our hotel, so chose there. We had something called Arby’s. Obviously American but cannot say I have come across the chain before. It was below budget and filling and gave me enough energy to get back to the hotel via a visit to the supermarket.

That evening was embarrassingly void of anything interesting. A huge reason of writing these blogs is to force me to actually do stuff, but on this occasion the evening was spent in the hotel room watching the football on TV, ad-hoc visits to the shower to rinse my feet in cold water and a kebab from Uber Eats.

Day Three – Galata Tower and Bosphorus Boat Tour

The morning of Day 3 was when I mentioned earlier, it took my 15 minutes to walk 120 meters to the tram after leaving the hotel. By the time we travelled three stops to Karatoy station, the second course of Zapain for the day must have kicked in as we trekked for around 40 minutes uphill (usual pace 15-20 mins) to reach Galata Tower.

Not so fun fact: Writing this, I’ve just clocked a funicular (uphill underground car) that would have taken us to the top, with the tower a very short walk downhill. Absolutely taking the piss there.

Image ^ Some fancy looking steps up to Galata Tower from Karatoy tram station.

The Tower would have provided really good views of the Bosphorus, the Sirkeci and Sultanahmet districts where we were staying and beyond. However, we just could not justify the £30 each ticket price to walk up a load of stairs behind 100+ schoolchildren.

Image ^ Galata Tower

Instead we did something we very rarely do. We sat down outside a café bar, had a slow paced fizzy beverage, enjoyed the sunshine and watched the world go by. Delightful. Almost like we were on holiday!

Image ^ Walking down Galata Tower to the tram. Think the road is called Yüksek Kaldırım

Descending the hill was actually more difficult for me than uphill, as we chose a very busy path with many shops and tourists, add steps, too many vans driving both ways and cobbled streets. By the time we reached the bottom, back at the tram stop, we decided that I’d tram back over the Galata bridge whilst Mikayla made a dent in her step target for the day (yeah rub it in, hun).

Image ^ The Galata Bridge with Galata Tower in the background

The benefit of this though, is that I had a comfy seaside seat for ten minutes watching the fishermen and the restaurant staff trying to shepherd folk in to their establishments. On a side note the amount of jellyfish visible in the water was something I haven’t seen before. Eurgh… The bridge itself was quite fascinating. Was it built to house all of these buildings on top of the water / under the bridge? Or were they a new addition?

For lunch we had this really disappointing kebab not too far from the hotel. A miniscule portion of meat compared to home and more expensive. I had every intention of having kebabs for at least 50% of my meals but this would be just my second and final one of the the trip. A real shame as I had been pescatarian for all but a couple of weekends this year.

Kebab misery aside, the probable highlight of the trip is up next!

For a bargain price of £22 each we added ourselves to a daily boat tour. When booking one may raise an eyebrow over the departure location, it’s in a petrol station, but nevertheless the ship was there promising us a meal, entertainment and audio guide.

Image ^ The boat next to ours. Very similar but ours was cleaner!

It was a strike of fortune that we were seated right in the corner to enjoy our own personal chit chat and genuinely weird but perfect way my wife and I get on.

The food was good, but excellent if you consider the overall cost.

Image ^ Table set up for dinner on the boat

For something similar near anywhere central you would pay at least the same and without the boat tour. I’ll put my neck out and say that even if you have one night in Istanbul it’s worth doing.

LINK HERE to our booking on Viator. I’m nowhere near mainstream enough to use #ad, so it’s just my opinion.

Image ^ View from the boat close to departure point

The trip itself aside from the good food was also very pleasing. The tour travelled north under one bridge and close to the next that connect the two sides of the city.

Image ^ View of boats under the Bosphorus Bridge

In total there were 22 audio guide points on the tour, showcasing everything from history to bridges to islands to palaces to fortresses on the way. I did actually save the app to share in more detail but in the interest of keeping this shorter – go see it yourself.

The entertainment on board also deserves a mention. Traditional music and dances with a belly dancer chucked in for the Dads. I’ve got a great photo of said dancer having a wonderful time time with my wife but I’m keeping that to myself. Or for divorce proceedings…

Image ^ The Eastern side of the Straight with Kuleli Military High School (now a museum and language school) lit up.

We were privileged to have gone on a tour on the Nile in 2022 shortly after I proposed to Mikayla with similar entertainment on board. So for this reason, I paid more attention to the sights and audio guide. And the baklava for dessert!

Image ^ Another view of the Bosphorus Bridge

Go on. One more photo of a bridge.

Oooh shit I nearly forgot a fun fact!

Fun fact: The Bosphorus Bridge, known officially as the 15 July Martyrs Bridge built in 1973 to aid transport of goods and commute spans over 1.5 kilometres joining the sides of Istanbul. At the time this bridge had the 4th largest suspension span in the world. To locals back home in Wales , imagine the Severn Bridges but with NO support in the middle! Impressive eh? The equally impressive Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge further north is very similar (50m shorter) and built in 1988.

Image ^ Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge

In total the tour lasted around 3.5 hours. I stress I’m not affiliated in any way but we had a 3 course meal plus bread and salad, music, dancers, a long boat ride on the Bosphorus, free soft drinks and we’re sat right by the smoking area (I’m a smoker and had a bad foot remember) ALL FOR LESS than entry to Galata Tower that we visited in the morning.

Day Four – Hagia Sofia, Grand Bazaar and Taksim Square

I assumed somewhere selling suitcases and bags would also sell walking sticks? Is this apparent in the UK or just me? But no joy for our first three days here. This morning it had got to the point I couldn’t stand up straight, so I asked the hotel reception where to buy such a walking aid, for them to pull out an actual crutch from lost property!

WHY DIDN’T YOU ENQUIRE ON DAY TWO YOU IDIOT…

Image ^ The highlight of the trip.

Apparatus in hand, literally (lolz), we set off. Day Four would have been a write off without it.

We headed back to Sultanahmet Square (day 2) to visit the other mosque known as the Hagia Sophia. This surely is the tourist hotspot as it was the first time on the trip we experienced a queue of obvious non-locals. Fun fact, it used to be a church and still has some nods to Christianity inside. I found that bizarre.

Image ^ Outside the Hagia Sophia Mosque

The tour guides around here are a pain in the arse. They may help you jump the ticket queue (it was quiet when we went so would’ve saved us five minutes) but would have been overpriced. The entrance ticket itself was quite expensive at around 20 quid but you did get a really good audio guide with that.

Image ^ Inside the Hagia Sophia Mosque

Top tip: The Hagia Sophia was a good visit and worth the money. You could pay about 50% more to go downstairs i.e. walk on the green carpet, but we felt that was upselling from the ticket office and everything is visible from the tier we were at. The audio guide and walk took around an hour which I thought was the correct amount.

After a good rest outside sat in the square and a newfound determination, we wanted to tackle the Grand Bazaar, a few stops along the tram route. I expected this place to be absolutely heaving and to not necessarily enjoy our walk around. You can imagine my surprise when we entered the well lit and spacious market floor. I was expecting narrow alleys bustling with people including pickpockets but this was more akin to a shopping mall – even the stall owners were not as pushy as I expected.

Image ^ Inside the Grand Bazaar market

We purposely waited to visit here to pick up a routine Christmas tree decoration and a magnet for Mum, with success. I’m admittedly crap at bartering and didn’t have much complaint about the traders first offer of £5 for a small Aladdin like lamp that will genie itself into a decoration with some poetic licence. We did however manage to get him down to £4 but apart from the ‘experience’ of bartering (meh) it wasn’t really worth the hassle for such a small purchase?!

Image ^ A selection of Baklava inside the Grand Bazaar.

Exiting via the west side as there was a recommended kebab shop I saw online, this is where the streets did get very tight and busy. This area is surely still considered the market area but I’m guessing the rent is considerably lower!

Image ^ The vast external streets outside the Grand Bazaar indoor market

In total we continuously walked for about half an hour as the kebab stall didn’t really take our fancy, until we got to the outskirts of the market. For lunch we had Burger King next door to the disappointing kebab shop we visited yesterday.

Back at the hotel I did entertain some self-guided water ‘aerobics’ in the small pool to hopefully assist recovery- it didn’t.

After a productive morning we reviewed what was left to do and decided to make a slow paced visit to Taksim Square about half an hour away on the tram and up an underground funicular.

The square was the largest area we had seen and you’d think here is where they could hold big events such as concerts or a TV showing of Türkiye’s third place finish at the 2002 football World Cup. Tonight though it was very quiet and not much going on. This did further highlight the centrepiece of the square – Taksim Mosque. I don’t know whether it was atop a hill or strikingly lit up in anticipation to celebrate Ramadan, but to me this was the prettiest of all the many Mosques we passed yet it didn’t appear on many sightseeing to-do lists. I understand you can go in if you wish.

Image ^ Taksim Mosque taken from Taksim Square

We sacked off the idea of visiting another football ground as Mikayla was starting to feel a bit worse for wear so called it a night.

Day Five – Basilica Cistern, Footy stadiums and commute back to airport

What started off as being a bit lethargic the night before turned into something a lot worse the morning after for Mikayla. Not very good timing as it was a) the only morning I actually felt a bit better with the foot and b) the day we would travel home. This was really sad considering how much she had to put up with me throughout the week.

With some disappointment and guilt I made my way, on my own, back to Sultanahmet Square to visit the last major thing we wanted to see, being the underground Basilica Cistern. On this occasion I did splash out on the £30 entry fee, which in hindsight was very expensive for the experience.

To avoid being as confused as I was at one point expecting some Church like dwelling… a basilica is basically a large oblong hall and a cistern is receptacle for holding water, like your loo at home.

Initially built between the 3rd and 4th Century, the Basilica provided a water filtration system for nearby important buildings during the  Byzantine period followed by the Ottoman times.

Image ^ Inside the Basilica Cistern

It was a very large area covering nearly 10,000 square metres, featuring over 300 nine-metre marble pillars.

The audio guide was useful without presenting anything incredible. Aside from the area as a whole I guess, the main attraction were two column bases featuring the head of Medusa. These were apparently oriented sideways to avoid her gaze that would turn you in to stone. Yep, people believed that.

In popular culture, the site has featured in 007’s From Russia With Love and a few other films, however my first thought was how much it would fit in to an Assassin’s Creed video game. With method behind the madness, the guide did confirm that it featured in the Revelations instalment.

Image ^ One of two Medusa head columns inside the Basilica Cistern

With the tour being wrapped up quicker than expected and with Kay having no reason to want to check-out until the last possible minute, I took it upon myself to take an hour-long trip from the Basilica Cistern to visit football ground number two, belonging to Besiktas – probably the most central of all teams in Istanbul.

Image ^ A small harbour with the Asian side of the city in the background

Remarkably this was a stone throw away from where we caught the ferry but I was none the wiser in the night time.

As time wasn’t really in my favour I simply walked around the arc of some of the stadium and through the club shop. I don’t think I could have been tempted by a £70 shirt even if they had my size! Out of the 3 grounds visited this was the most poignant as their current manager is Ole Gunnar Solskjaer who was by far my favourite player growing up.

Image ^ Tüpraş Stadium, the home of Besiktas football club

Back at the hotel it was time to leave with our suitcase and two backpacks. I did hand my crutch back to lost property which was a schoolboy error in hindsight.

We never envisaged that this leg of the trip would be so bad to regret passing on a £35 taxi, but a combination of the distance, busy-ness, cost and illness(es) really made this hard work.

The one highlight was a stop off outside the Galatasaray stadium, completing the trio of largest Turkish teams. This in itself though added an extra hour to the commute.

Image ^ RAMS Park, the home of Galatasaray football club

We think it cost us about 20 quid in tickets as our 3-day pass had expired and was unlikely to be used on the airport leg anyway. And the last part of the journey via metro was standing room only!

This meant that by the time we finally arrived at Istanbul airport (itself huge) we were well and truly spent. We still had three passport/security checks to navigate and pick up some tobacco from duty free before we could finally rest and wait for our flight to board.

If tiredness had a monetary value, only when I got home did I realise I spent £23 on a McDonalds at the airport on one meal and extra fries. #hownottolife kids….

To finish, here are a few things we didn’t do for a number of reasons, but you may wish to consider.

  • Kiz Kulezi or Maidens Tower – a building locate off shore in the Straight
  • Topkapi Palace Museum – about £30 each entry
  • Dolmabahçe Palace – about £30 each entry
  • Day trip to Bursa – we initially booked this tour but cancelled due to the reviews
  • Day trip to Troy (as in the movie) – a long way to travel in one day and £90 each if I remember correctly
  • Ataturk Stadium, where Liverpool and Man City have both won Champions Leagues. About a three hour round trip on public transport as it’s some way outside of the City!

If you have any more that you feel should be on that list, give me a shout!

Thanks for reading!

Normandy & Brittany, France – December 2024

Welcome to my final post of 2024! It’s been a great year travelling, starting off slowly with our wedding in March, followed by our first trip to Barcelona and Andorra the day after in April. Next up was a trip to the Algarve with my Mum for a dire Wales football draw with Gibraltar. The big one was undoubtedly our fabulous honeymoon to South America in August, although my solo trip to Montenegro and Dubrovnik in September was very enjoyable.

This trip was different as I’d be driving in another country. I did drive from Prague to Amsterdam way back in 2013 but that’s a distant memory.

The purpose of the trip was to visit Mont St Michel, a small island of the northern coast of France I had wanted to visit for a few years now. Once this was an option, we were able to plan around it, and whistle stop tours of Bayeux, Rennes and Caen made up our itinerary.

Image ^ Our Top 9 photos from the trip!

Getting around

I usually detail all of the public transport options here, but the car was an obvious luxury, and an absolute necessity for our itinerary. We caught the ferry from Portsmouth to Caen. This not only saved us 2 hours by not driving to Dover for the ferry or Eurotunnel, but also 2 or 3 hours on the French side getting to Bayeux for day 1. This did mean the ferry was overnight rather than a few hours, however it did save us from probably forking out two additional hotel stays.

The roads in France were good. It took some getting used to driving on the right hand side, especially the roundabouts and the km/miles conversion, but nothing that should put you off. There is a chance I caught caught by the sole speed camera and an incoming €59 fine, although at the moment I’m confident the flash was for the car going the other direction at some pace! Worth noting that parking was surprisingly cheap.

Costs

We didn’t get much change from £900 for the whole trip, which was quite a bit more than we expected.

The big cost was the ferry at £380 return for a car, two passengers and a £40 cabin each way. Diesel was around the same as the UK, so another £150.

We tried to save a little on hotels. Mont St Michel’s hotel Vert was £90 including breakfast and parking… This was a great location and the cheapest in the small area. Rennes was £65 including breakfast and free parking. Caen £50 all in.

We cut back on food and drink, taking a load of drinks in the car and mostly takeaways for food.

Not forgetting the £25 expense on a car kit to adhere to French law. Not so fun fact: If you drive in France it is mandatory that you have a hi-viz jacket, warning triangle, UK car sticker and headlight deflectors where necessary. We didn’t see another car with the deflectors. Maybe newer cars can be changed somewhere on the dashboard to point them in the correct direction but I couldn’t be arsed to investigate.

I don’t want to waste another paragraph on this, but I noticed a lot of sets stated you also need a fire extinguisher, first aid kit and other nonsense, but the RAC and Eurotunnel websites stated just those four.

Image ^ Boarding the ferry at Portsmouth on route to Caen

What we didn’t do…

To be honest we had a full four days, with keeping time aside to relax (it was a holiday like) so I’m not disappointed in missing anything obvious. Had we had more time and preparation, perhaps a deeper investigation of the coastline and war beaches would have been really interesting.

When in Rennes, a friend suggested visiting Nantes but was a bit further out the way. The beauty of the trip, apart from one 120 minute drive, was that the place hopping commutes were limited to just 20-60 minutes.

It’s also “only” (Kay’s words) a 4 hour drive to Disneyland from Caen. So fill your boots with the endless possibilities.

Itinerary

Day One – Bayeux and bits

Obviously the ferry ride went alright. Paint me Jack… Time to drive on the wrong i.e. right side of the road for the first time in 11 years, and with an automobile I’m actually responsible for.

Straight off the bat outside of the port I blindly rocked up 80kmh at the first unexpected roundabout. I’d like to think the presence of headlights would have stopped me had there been some, but yeah, first learning curve eight minutes in.

Luckily for us and the population of France we weren’t on the motorway long as we turned off to head to our first stop, as it was around 7:30am and nearby Bayeux attractions opened at 10am.

Image ^ A very early arrival at Longues-sur-Mer Battery

After driving through a few miles of country lanes, it was strange to see a massive area for 10+ coach spaces and 100+ cars. However, as said area notified us that we couldn’t park until 9am, we continued and parked on a verge right by the sight we wanted to see.

Our stop was Longues-sur-Mer Battery. Here were quote “huge, preserved WWII gun installations, built by the Germans to defend France from sea invasion.” The battery is the only one in Normandy to retain several of its original guns.

Image ^ A naval gun at the battery

Many return readers will note I don’t tend to bother with religious buildings, museums or history in general. However, in this neck of the woods pretty much all of the above were unavoidable. And I loved the experience.

If any historians are reading please note that my posts are not much more than a diary for my own benefit. I’m usually a cider loving football fan from Wales.

Image ^ Inside the structure housing the guns. Very spooky early in the morning!

It quickly hit us that these machines were not only an unfamiliar attraction in itself, but were used as a weapon during WW2 to actually kill people. Certain they did.

The area contained a few of these stations. We saw three of four, being way too scared in limited daylight to explore the narrow passageways behind the turrets, before returning to the car for our short 30 minute journey to the surprisingly small town of Bayeux.

Image ^ The entrance to the Bayeux Tapestry museum

Now THIS is a fun fact. The last time I visited the Bayeux Tapestry was on exactly 2nd July 2000. Chrissy an innocent 12 year old. I remember the day vividly as later on that evening France won the Euro 2000 final  with a David Trezeguet golden goal.

Nos-fucking-talgia.

Perhaps due to this incredible moment in time, I had ABSOLUTELY NO RECOLLECTION of what the Bayeux Tapestry building looked like, and my old age, obviously. After the fourth change of direction we finally reached the magnificent building, which in fairness looked similar to other building in the beautiful town. Tickets were bought. Museum go.

Image ^ The tapestry itself (image nicked from Google as taking photo’s was prohibited).

I have probably touched upon the fact I try to avoid museums, art and religious stuff on my travels, if not already here on every other blog, but if you’re in the area = visit the Bayeux Tapestry.

The Tapestry i.e. the bit of cloth you see, depicts 1066 and William the Conqueror… ummm… conquering England.

My aforementioned new found loves of this trip, including museums, will stop at history lessons. So find that out for yourself. I’m gonna focus on the amazing feat that a SEVENTY odd meter bit of cloth made it into this museum being about, give or take a THOUSAND years old. That’s a bit impressive ain’t it?

Honestly, I would not have had a clue what what was going on had it not been for the free audio guide breaking up each scene on the display. Lasting about 30 minutes, it was a perfect walk and listen overview of the tapestry for me personally.

Image ^ Bayeux Cathedral

As buzzing as I could be at 11am on a misty 27th December having been up since 5 and driving the wrong way since 6am, I couldn’t help but notice how wonderful the small town of Bayeux was. I guess coachloads come and go just for the Tapestry, but as we wanted to get every cent from the parking arrangement headed to the impressive Bayeux Cathedral and a walk around the streets. I also lost my cigarette lighter that needed replacing. So two birds one stone…

Image ^ Walking through the quaint streets of Bayeux

Back at the car to our next stop was only a five minute drive and free parking available at the Museum of the Battle of Normandy. Whilst we didn’t go in to this museum, the tanks outside themselves were somewhat an attraction (if you’re in to that sort of thing) but more importantly it was only a two-minute walk up the boulevard to the Bayeux War Cemetery.

Image ^ Outside the Museum of the Battle of Normandy

There was little actual WW2 combat in Bayeux, although it was the first French town of importance to be liberated. Bayeux War Cemetery is the largest Commonwealth cemetery of the Second World War in France and contains burials brought in from the surrounding districts and from hospitals that were located nearby.

The site contains 4,144 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War. At the time of writing Google Maps label this as the British cemetery but this is not correct. There are also over 500 war graves of other nationalities, the majority German.

Image ^ Bayeux War Cemetery

I wasn’t really sure what to do with photographing the cemetery and more so popping them on a sub-par blog, so I decided just to take one each to perhaps show the scale of sacrifice.

Across the road from the graveyard is the Bayeux Memorial, to remember the 1,800+ Commonwealth Soldiers who are know to have died but have no known grave.

Image ^ Bayeux War Memorial

From Bayeux we drove 25 minutes to the Normandy American Cemetery just off the Channel. I did find this very contrasting. It has a huge carpark before going through the entrance with toilets, site map and a small museum. It feels strange to compare but it did have that Theme Park feel with the entrance, multiple trails and ‘attractions’. A feeling the American’s doubled up the site as a celebration of victory alongside remembering the fallen.

Image ^ Omaha beach taken from inside Normandy American Cemetery

We took a path that ran above the famous Omaha beach. We didn’t see anyone on the beach walking the dog etc. It was eerily vacant. Perhaps visiting the beach is prohibited I don’t know. In any case it was impossible to imagine the warfare 60 years prior.

A map overlooking the beach was educational, especially for me who had/has little knowledge on the subject.

Image ^ Map depicting allied forces arriving in France during WW2

Whatever route you chose you would no doubt enter the huge area with the graves. Thousands upon thousands of crosses with the odd Star of David gravestones dotted throughout.

Image ^ Over 9000 gravestones at the Normandy American Cemetery

In total, 9,389 people are buried here.

Image ^ Infinity pool and memorial at the Normandy American Cemetery

The central point of the perfectly symmetrical layout features a chapel, with what I can only assume the front end featuring an infinity pool, a semi-circular memorial with a statue titled “The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves”. The alcoves contain maps and a considerable amount of text further informing the viewer of the history.

Image ^ Garden of the Missing at the Normandy American Cemetery

Behind the memorial was an arching garden called the “Garden of the Missing”, and similar to the one we seen in Bayeux contained the names of fallen soldiers with no grave. 1,557 of them.

After that enjoyable but very sombre walk we aimed to get to our next destination before early December nightfall. We just missed that target but arrived safely in – let’s call it the land part of Mont St Michel – after 110 minutes on the road.

Image ^ Our hotel at Mont St Michel

Our hotel was great for the £80 or so we paid. It is located in a kinda gated village with hotels and restaurants, which means you can drive through the barrier instead of park in the tourist and day-tripper car parks. For £80 we had a decent breakfast and located right outside a bus stop that would take us to the summit of the island if we didn’t fancy the 30 minute walk.

Day Two – Mont St Michel

Image ^ The shuttle bus that takes you along the road/bridge to the island

We got the bus. Perhaps the most disappointing park of the trip are the unsatisfactory photo’s I took here. The bleak weather didn’t help but I really should have taken more.

Only a fun fact can make up for this. The castle in the Disney movie Tangled is based on this place. Short but incredibly insightful I am sure you’ll agree.

Image ^ Mont St Michel. A crap photo but the best one I had available!

Inside the walls you could be mistaken for thinking you were wandering through Hogsmeade, an area in Harry Potter. The abbey at the top also looked extremely Hogwarts-y.

Image ^ The narrow streets within the walls

It was some incline to the castle, but the number of visitors, gift shops, cafe’s and restaurants made this less painstaking. Saying that, I REALLY wouldn’t fancy coming here in summer with 3x 4x the tourists.

Image ^ An image of the abbey from about 15 metres above sea level

Entrance to the Abbey was very reasonable at 11€. Avid readers will remember my last trip to Dubrovnik put me in a position to consider paying a tragic €35 just to walk a path around the city walls! Bollocks to that. This was much better value.

Image ^ The main spire of the Abbey

The map included with the self-guided tour explained the many rooms within the Abbey and their purpose. There wasn’t anything that particularly stood out to write about, but that wasn’t to say it wasn’t worthwhile and recommended if you go.

I will mention the gift shop oddly. They has such a nice pillowcase we contemplated paying 60 bloody Euros for it! Months later I can’t decide if leaving it was the correct call.

Image ^ Inside the Church of the Abbey

On the whole it is a must-do. If one went to Paris they’d simply HAVE to chuck themselves up the Eiffel Tower, and if you’re anywhere near here you should visit. In my opinion anyway. If you were wondering how a bus managed to take us to an island. Here you go:

Image ^ The road connecting the island to the mainland

D’you know what…. I recall this playing on my mind at the time (writing this bit nearly 2 months after visiting)… given the age and buildings of the commune, I wonder how far it is from a Wonder of the World?

Unfortunately I tend to use Christ the Redeemer statue in Brazil as a comparison. Yes it’s huge and on top of a mountain, but it is *only* a statue. They’ve even managed to construct lifts escalators up there to get people to the site lads… In my opinion this remarkable small hump gives it a run for its money. Apologies in advance Jesus…

Image ^ The abbey walls at the mouth of the Couesnon River

How contracting two pictures can be; above and below!

After the free shuttle bus back to the car, stop three being Rennes was only an hour away. Even though we had takeaways for the trip so far we still spent a few quid on food, so where else but IKEA?!?!

Image ^ Our ‘off the beaten track’ choice for lunch!

So cultured. I would be lying if I stated I just had the one hotdog to accompany some fries and an ice cream, but at least we didn’t leave the store with the usual picture frames, sandwich bags and at a Billy bookcase!

IKEA was on the outskirts of the city as was our digs for the night. Fortunately so too was the local football stadium! Rennes are quite a bit team in the French league but hardly get a look in after Paris Saint Germain, Marseille and Monaco.

Image ^ A peak inside Roazhon Park, the home of Rennes football club

It looked like a lovely stadium although the views inside were not that generous!

Image ^ Outside Roazhon Park, the home of Rennes football club

Our hotel tonight was a very cheap “B&B Hotel” which is a chain. I can’t think of another unmanned hotel I’ve stayed at. Whilst this wasn’t scary or an issue, it was only unmanned between 6pm and 8am, can you really not employ one person?!? The room was mega cheap but fuck sake pay someone. Corporate greed.

Image ^ The self-check-in machine at our hotel. Not a member of staff in sight

Day Three – Rennes and Vitré Castle

We didn’t get murdered and we were pleased to see a human being arranging the ample breakfast buffet for us. Continental but with bacon and sausage. Can’t complain.

Fuelled for what was intended to be a full day in Rennes city centre we walked 10 minutes to the metro station and headed in.

Image ^ Rennes metro

Fun fact. potentially three!… When the Metro opened in 2002. Rennes was the smallest city in the world to have a metro network. In 2008 it was succeeded by Lausanne in Switzerland. However in 2022 it was and is the smallest with two lines.

Eat that, Francis Bourgeois!

Image ^ The Canal d’Ille-et-Rance that runs through Rennes

I was amazed how quiet the city centre was. It was indeed a Sunday just after Christmas, but I would still expect to see a lot of residents walking around and most shops open. We walked from the central train station (Gare metro stop) over the Canal d’Ille-et-Rance to where we thought the tourism hot spots would be.

Image ^ Parlement of Brittany / Rennes Court of Appeal

After a quick stop at the Brittany Court of Appeal building with a very festive but closed yard out front, we heading in the direction of Saint Pierre Cathedral. Retracing my steps I see we missed a large square containing the Rennes Opera building that would have been worth a small detour, but we did enjoy the quirky buildings on our route.

Image ^ Some of the medieval half-timbered houses in the old town area of Rennes

The Cathedral stood dominant in a small square. Again it was strange being the only tourists around at this time and the building itself didn’t seem overly welcoming to visitors.

Image ^ Rennes / Saint-Pierre Cathedral

At this point we were both concerned about where our next toilet break would be. With the place like a ghost town and multiple cafe’s and restaurants either not open yet or closed for the day, decided to walk back towards the train station where at least there were more identifiable buildings that were likely to be open. We ended up going in to a cinema right outside our next stop which was the library, where I read we could get a really good viewpoint across the city.

Image ^ The Champs Libres centre in Rennes

Unfortunately the building that houses the Rennes Library and Museum of Brittany was closed, as was pretty much everywhere apart from whatever films they had on in the cinema… in French.

Admitting defeat, we agreed there was little pointing hanging around and as I was looking at the best route to Caen, we noticed a place called Vitré that would only slightly be out of our way. Mikayla took very little convincing and within the hour we were back at the hotel and on the road for a bit of spontaneity!

Image ^ Outside Vitré castle

After a 40 minute drive and a nearby McDonald’s lunch we parked up outside Vitré castle, at the cost of EIGHT UK PENCE for three hours.

It was very quiet here too. Must be the time of year. But there must be other lunatics like us who were doing similar? I don’t think I thought of Harry Potter as much when I visited the bloody studios, but the streets leading up to the castle very much resembled Hogsmeade. It was a shame nowhere was open, and didn’t look as they had been open for some time. I bet it’s bloody heaving in the summer, mind.

Image ^ Narrow streets leading to Vitré castle

Arriving in the open, the castle looked very grandiose, even if the empty carousel did feel a bit post-apocalyptic (I was getting early stages The Last of Us vibes).

It was nice to bump in to another human being at the ticket office and happily paid €7 each to enter.

Image ^ Outside the entrance to Vitré castle

There were a few other people and groups dotted about, which was nice, as I was starting to think we were bring a bit convenient visiting! The castle itself had impressive walls with a number of towers and rooms you could enter displaying exhibits and what life was like back then.

Image ^ Inside the castle and museum of Vitré

Hang on I don’t even know when ‘back then’ even was…. *finds brochure I brought home*

I’m so pleased of my forethought to keep the brochure guide thingy, I’m just going to write out what’s in there…

In the mid 11th century, Robert the 1st baron decided to build Vitré castle on its present site, at the top of a promontory forming a natural defence. His successors continued to enlarge, decorate and adapt the fortress as defence architecture developed, until the mid 17th century, when it was abandoned. It was then converted into a prison. The fortress is a remarkable vestige of the tumultuous (fucking hell you can tell these aren’t my words…) history of the Breton border marchlands.

There ya go. Nothing much about any battles of blood spill sadly by the looks…

Image ^ A view from Vitré castle

Vitre castle was a pleasant visit considering Rennes was a bit of a let-down (our fault not theirs). Who doesn’t love a castle? It also meant we were closer to our next destination.

That was about it for today. Our two hour drive leaving Brittany to return to Normandy, specifically Caen went quickly as I was listening to the football commentary back home. I did think there was a 90% chance we got flashed by the only bloody speed camera we noticed, but writing this section three months later I think we’ve gotten away with it, touch wood.

By the time we settled in to our hotel on the outskirts of Caen, I watched the remainder of Newport losing for the millionth time in the season, and had an early night after grabbing a takeaway.

Day Four – Caen

To save a bit of messing around and to have a bit more freedom should Caen centre be as quiet as Rennes the previous day, we decided to drive rather than catch the bus and parked in walking distance of the main sights we wanted to see.

Image ^ Hôtel de Ville de Caen (town hall) next to the Abbaye-aux-Hommes.

Today was a rather pleasant day given the time of year (not as gloomy as the photo!) and after a short stroll through the gardens leading up to the Hotel de Ville we paid a few euro to enter. Just by looking at the magnificent state of the place, you can tell it has not been a hotel for some time and now houses the municipal Town Hall since 1965.

Image ^ A garden in the monastery with the Abbaye-aux-Hommes in the background.

It was tricky to differentiate between what was the old hotel and what was the abbey as part of the museum walk included a yard that was mart of a monk monastery, once part of the abbey itself. The museum if I recall explained the effect WW2 had on the City and whilst I can’t remember exactly how many buildings were damaged by bombing, it was a lot. The museum also had an exhibition space that on the day housed loads of model ships! I love a model but surprisingly this didn’t take my fancy. If said boats were made of Lego I’d still be there now…

Image ^ An outside view of the Abbaye-aux-Hommes
Image ^ Inside the Abbaye-aux-Hommes

Next up was the adjacent Abbey of Saint-Étienne, more commonly know as the Abbaye-aux-Hommes. A very impressive structure and free to enter – once we found the door. The inside was impressive but you know I’m not too interested in that sort of stuff, so, to me, by far the coolest thing in here was the resting place of William the Conqueror who we learnt about at the Bayeux Tapestry.

Image ^ The ledger stone of William the Conqueror

Bill founded the abbey in 1063 and his tomb has gone through several disturbances and renovations since his burial in 1087. I am led to believe that under the 19th Century stone that is here today, only Bill’s thigh bone is in the tomb! Whilst I won’t admit to using Wikipedia as my main or reliable source of historical information I have since forgotten since the visit, I did chuckle at this excerpt…

“A further indignity occurred when the corpse was lowered into the tomb. The corpse was too large for the space, and when attendants forced the body into the tomb it burst, spreading a disgusting odour throughout the church.”

Lovely. When it’s my time just chuck me in the oven and scatter me somewhere nice yeah?

Following the abbey we walked around 25 minutes to Caen castle. The area looked (and may be) more of a Citadel that would have overlooked all other buildings back in the day, minus the odd church spire.

Image ^ A view of the City outside the main entrance to Caen Castle
Image ^ A

Again this was free entry, but there was a LOT of renovation work going on. A little chapel was closed and the erection of modern building housing museums didn’t really match up I thought. Now writing this section in April and looking on Google Maps, the renovation looks almost complete and nothing like my photo thankfully!

Image ^ A building site inside Caen Castle

Also pertinent on the map is the castle keep towards the north of the walled area that would have been worth a look at. Unfortunately this was cordoned off during our visit, so after a quick lap of the outskirts we headed outside of the walls.

A stroll through one of the main shopping streets was a nice way to spend our last lunchtime. We didn’t have a plan for lunch yet so I was keen for a nibble of something. Ultimately though, I was so indecisive with too many options, I ended up with nothing!

Image ^ A high street in Caen

Back in the car we had an epiphany and decided to hunt down a nearby Aldi or Lidl for lunch. We each had a sandwich, a pastry, cake and drink for something like six quid each and reflected that we should have done this for other mealtimes.

As fate would have it, smack bang in the middle of the drive to our final tour stop was a football ground – the home of Stade Malherbe Caen, or just Caen. A very decent stadium looking at it from the roadside. The team play in the second division in France and aren’t very good at the moment. This led me down a rabbit hole and I was amazed that Caen is only the 40th biggest commune in France given it’s history, location and sights.

Image ^ The Stade Michel d’Ornano, home of Caen football club

Our final stop was the museum Memorial de Caen, tagged “Caen’s Centre for History & Peace, exploring WWII, the Normandy landings & the Cold War.” Parking was free and entrance was €20 each.

Image ^ The Memorial de Caen building from outside.

I have to be honest, I loved this museum visit. This is not like me. I probably learnt more about World War 2 in the couple of hours here than I knew beforehand. Quite a sombre end to our trip.

I was going to make a concentrated effort in going into detail about the experience, the reason for quite a few photo’s, but I don’t think I would do the place justice. I would however suggest you visit yourself if you ever find yourself getting to France using the port of Caen/Ouistreham.

Image ^ A timeline of WW2 after entering the exhibit.
Image ^ Various posters made by the UK recruiting soldiers from around the world. Don’t tell Tommy Robinson…
Image ^ An exhibit portraying the affect of war on Caen

Ooh, I mentioned that I could not recall the amount of damaged buildings in Caen during WW2, when we visited the Hotel de Ville this morning… I knew I made a note of it somewhere. 35%.

Pardon me for adding such a boring photo, but it had to be included. This was taken from a short film as part of the exhibit showing the extremity of the fighting on the D-Day beaches. I felt this really poignant as kind of a round circle for the trip, after visiting the batteries early on our first morning.

Image ^ The end of a short film in the museum exhibit, showing the now calm D-Day beaches.

We still had a little bonus after exiting the main museum into the mezzanine area. There is also an underground bunker that you can visit under the museum.

Image ^ A

Although this has of course gone under a significant amount of renovation and refurbishment, this spot was in fact a command post of the German general Wilhelm Richter and played a crucial role during the first decisive weeks of the Battle of Normandy. You can read more about the bunker on the museums website here (link).

Image ^ In the bunker underneath the Caen Memorial museum.
Image ^ A recreated of the goings on of a command post during WW2.

So there we go. A lot of ground covered in four days and many wide-ranging sights were enjoyed.

Image ^ Centre commercial Carrefour Hérouville, a good place to stop before the ferry back to the UK.

Whilst we were pleased to drag out the museum visit longer than we expected, we still had some hours to waste until our overnight ferry. A humongous shopping centre passed the time providing us with dinner and a look around a few shops, trying my upmost to successful tell Mikayla she does not need a Harry Potter book in French!

Image ^ And finally… the ferry back to Portsmouth

Thanks for reading,

Chris

Montenegro, Croatia & Bosnia Herzegovina – September 2024

Certainly my last trip before Christmas 2024, sent me to the Balkans, with the main purpose to watch the football between Montenegro and Wales. When booking the trip in March, little did I know that I wouldn’t have a ticket, I’d have to take unpaid leave from my new job (just a fortnight after doing the same for my three week honeymoon!) and the venue of the game would be changed just a fortnight before matchday!

Nevertheless, I do believe that it is my favourite Wales away yet. With so many potential things that could – and did – go wrong, ultimately it all worked out – AND we won which is never a given!

The trip is poignant as it is the first time I have spent the whole trip going solo. Other times I have travelled alone, I have always met up with friends or events the other side. I will admit I enjoyed the freedom and not having to have any immediate plans at the drop of a hat. If I wanted to go for a walk, no probs. Spend 30 minutes having a fag sat on a park bench watching the world go by? Absolutely. Nobody to tell me once I had too much to drink? Thankfully I didn’t get to that stage! I felt safe in every location I visited. I was very grateful for a little bit of company before the match in Niksic from a couple of fellow Newport County fans, and a few strangers on a boat trip that was just enough to avoid feeling lonely – oh and my wonderful wife on WhatsApp!

Introduction

My usual template of how I write my posts can’t really work here as I kinda had 2 small holidays in two separate countries, plus a day trip to another! You will obviously get to read about what I got up to with hopefully a sprinkling on some fun facts on the way.

For clarity in the hope that other parts of the blog make sense, in total I was away for seven nights/eight days. Days 1-4 in Montenegro, days 5-7 in Dubrovnik (Croatia) although I also made a half-day trip to Mostar Bosnia on day six! You with me? Good. Too confuse you further, I went to three different places in Montenegro that consisted of a day trip to coastal Budva, a city called Niksic for the match, with my base being in the capital called Podgorica (I knew how to pronounce it for about a week but I’ve lost it since! (I think it is pronounced Pod-gor-it-za!)

Costs

Following on from my last point, if I listed individual expenditure from three different countries we’d both be here for days, so I’ll try and summarise.

Flights were €250 and were made up of a WizzAir flight from Gatwick to Podgorica, and an EasyJet return from Dubrovnik to Bristol, which was worth paying that little bit extra as Bristol is a lot closer to home. These fares were with hand luggage only, and both flights I think I was a little lucky to avoid the extra fares as no way was my bag fitting in that shitty little box before boarding. I also washed my own clothes on 2-3 occasions which saved on luggage and laundrette fees (massive benefit of staying in an apartment or somewhere with outside space or balcony!).

The bus from Newport to Gatwick was decent at £22, but did mean leaving home at 7pm on the Thursday with my flight not until 5am on the Friday!

To get from Montenegro to Croatia I used a £25 Flixbus, but note that one should not expect the comparative luxury you get on a branded FlixBus in this neck of the woods. In this case they were simply an agent for a local company with coaches that I doubt would pass their MOT in the UK.

I’m not adding up every entry on my Monzo statement but I reckon the total cost all-in was less than £1,000.

Accomodation

To reduce costs it turned out that I stayed in apartments throughout the trip. Podgorica and Niksic about £20-25 per night and Dubrovnik £50 per night, which was good for the area.

Other subliminal costs and prices of tours etc I’ll try and remember to include in the diary itself. Let’s get started.

Day One (Friday) – Podgorica

Shall we quickly begin with some fun facts? – given that Montenegro isn’t high up on the most popular tourist destinations I’ll visit. Montenegro is a former Yugoslav country in the Balkans. It’s size it about half of Wales, yet has a population of only 620 odd thousand. It is bordered by five different countries to help you find it on a map (clockwise Serbia, Kosovo, Albania, Croatia and Bosnia with a coast to the south on the Adriatic Sea.

The name Montenegro translates to “Black Mountains” a nod to the thick forestry within the country. After the break up of Yugoslavia is became part of “Serbia & Montenegro” but gained full independence in 2006. The majority of the country is Christian, although a significant number of those with Islam faith still remain, being once within the Ottoman Empire.

A significantly fun fact is that they use the Euro as currency, yet are NOT part of the European Union.

I seriously cannot find many famous Montenegrins of the current day, and previously I assume they’d be regarded as Yugoslav. Football-wise, Stevan Jovetic played against Wales – who is a former Sevilla, Inter Milan, Fiorentina and possibly remembered at home as a Man City player in the mid-2010’s.

The flight from Gatwick to the Montenegrin capital was a comfortable enough three hours. Not so fun fact: I had researched beforehand that the airport is one of only like, two, in Europe that do not have any public transport connections. Bizarre as it was only about 15 minutes outside of the centre, where public buses ran really well and were free for my stay.

For this reason, cue a plethora of taxi drivers trying to rip you off. The internet suggested that a trip to the centre would cost €12, so I was mildly peeved to get a bloke down to €15 from €20. THEN the cheeky sod grabbed another three stranded tourists and ALSO charged them €15 each. An absolute scandal, but at this point I worried that if I disembarked this ride I would struggle to get offered another one from the fat controller running the show outside arrivals. I did not leave a tip and purposely paid with a fifty note just to hear the driver whinge about his lack of change.

I forgot to mention in my rage, that he did try and get another ten Euro off me for a drop off at my apartment, saying it was 8km away from the Centre. I told him in different terms to shove it up his arse, and that it was actually 4km, and headed for lunch with a hell of a frown. Great start.

The one thing Scrooge McDriver actually did do for me was to drop me really close to the main square pictured above. Now I really did like the city but what a bloody crap main square, even with a token Hard Rock. Exploring the menus for the three café restaurants nearby and after picking up some cheap cigs, I was delighted to find a pizza and a cider for under a tenner. I was not planning on drinking at 11:30am however the Somersby cost less than a coke. No brainer really.

This pleasant lunch break gave me chance to cool off (it was bloody boiling most of the time in Montenegro and I wasn’t quite prepared for such. Much more humid than South America a fortnight earlier!) and to find my way to my apartment using local transport.

Luckily a relevant bus stop was a mere ten minute walk away, outside the stadium where Wales should have been playing at on the Monday. The bus ride was interesting. I boarded what could be considered right in the middle of town, yet 4km away in a straight line it felt you are in the far suburbs, borderline countryside.

This meant my apartment was in a quiet area and I was grateful for a sign post.

The apartment I stayed at was called Apartments F (link) and whilst the outside gardens were nice I did get a bit of a shock when being shown to my room in the basement. Blog-followers will note that only a fortnight prior I was living the life of comparative luxury in 4-5* hotels in Peru, Argentina and Brazil, so this was somewhat of a come down!

Still, another bonus of solo travel, is that – for me and for the cost – it was ab-so-lute-ly fine and nobody else had to be satisfied. It was near a bus stop, had a decent shower, fridge, superb air-con and supermarket nearby. It was also nice to give my cash to a family rather than a big corporation, albeit Booking.com classes as one I suppose.

After only I’d say about an hour, I caught the bus back in to town to do some exploring. Podgorica suggestions didn’t come up with much, but anywhere with a river running through the middle of it brings hope.

There was a pretty basic “Millennium Bridge” that popped up on a few lists for reasons unknown, but the park nearby was really pleasant.

From here it was a riverside walk to the oldest bridge in the city, super dried out as it was I think the hottest summer on record (this qualify as a fun fact?). I did have a local beer in a bar just to the right of the bridge, but the fact they charged me €5 instead of the anticipated €1-2 means they get no photo, sorry folks. I swear most of the time I must have a sign above my head that reads TOURIST TAX.

Up some rather unfavourable steps in the heat followed to bring me to the old town. You’ll get to see what a few ‘old towns’ look like as you continue reading, but maybe scratch this one. The area was mainly small houses, empty/derelict houses, I really think with a bit of investment and a few coffee shops it could be bustling, although I appreciate the residents here like their privacy – there certainly were not many tourists. Even the sight in the area, a mosque, didn’t really take my fancy as I walked on through for some dinner at a shopping centre.

Although I didn’t plan to beforehand, now I had found my bearing I popped back to the apartment. I would be going to watch the Wales home game down the pub this evening at 8:45 but that was still a few hours away. I topped up some snacks in the supermarket and believe I had an hour or two kip (I had a total of 90 minutes sleep on a plane in the last 36 hours). I remember it being a minor struggle to drag myself up and set off for a pub.

With no idea what the buses were like in the evening, I was delighted to be offered a lift in to town by my host. I picked a posh looking bar called the Welder Pub, and with some affordable €3.80 lagers settled down to watch a 0-0 draw between Wales and Turkey, back in Cardiff near home.

Not so fun fact: The reason I missed this game was utmost stupidity on my part. When booking, I ‘accidentally’ booked a flight for the Monday matchday, thought to myself “No, make a weekend of it” and paid £30 to change my flight, twenty minutes before realising I’d be missing a bloody home game!

Funner fact: My wife had my seat, going to her first ever Cymru match with my mum and friend. Although it was goalless she did have a good time and has even hinted about going again!

At half time I actually moved to a bar a few doors up where bottles of local beer was just €1.50. I stayed here until close around midnight, grabbed a very decent chicken kebab wrap, realised the local taxi app was less than useless and made the long 4km trek home – which, with a new Simon Kernick audiobook on the go, was actually really pleasant. I was however, way too tired at this stage. Just what you need before a 7:25am bus in the morning…

Day Two (Saturday) – Budva and Sveti Stefan

Pre-assuming that Podgorica wouldn’t keep me fully entertained for 3-4 days, I booked a 90 minute trip to the southern coast of the country and a return back TWELVE hours later at 9:30pm. It was a long day. Bus price around £12 return.

Budva is probably the most popular tourist destination in the country, surrounded by mountains. It was super-hot today so being by the sea offered a little respite. I realised beforehand that there is nothing in the way of public buses or trams/trains, so started off by walking for half an hour from the bus station to the marina and had a look at the boats I’ll never be able to afford.

For the first time since the flight over, I noticed a few Welsh bucket hats bobbing around the old town. I think a lot of fans, especially those who didn’t secure tickets, stayed here for a few days.

The old town was instantly different from that in Podgorica, with your typical narrow streets, cafe bars and gift shops.

After walking around the old town for a little bit deciding whether to pay more than expected for breakfast, I noticed the citadel was open to visit and a few people on the roof. I do love a good viewpoint.

The citadel itself was small and apart from a closed restaurant and two library rooms that Mikayla would have enjoyed, the best was undoubtedly the view of the old town and further afield.

Already with a sweat-soaked back, I picked up a magnet for the mother (she really need to reinstate pocket money for the amount I’ve spent on these this year!) and realising it was only 11:30, made the rare decision to just do nothing for an hour. I picked a great spot on a beach under the shade and stretched out a can of €4 Fanta for the duration as I researched somewhere reasonably priced for lunch.

The place for lunch was another 20 minute walk away but on the way I did notice a bus service that would take me to a beach a little further along the coast. The lunch itself was, well, meat heavy, but for €15 it was outstanding, albeit a lot more than my intended light lunch. The look on the waiters face when he brough two plates out with the food, with me looking at him to say “I’m not sharing, pal”.

Close to regretting the salt content of the above platter, I paid about €3 for a minibus that would take me to Sveti Stefan, a small beach area to the east of Budva. The minibus filled up to capacity and was SO uncomfortable in the heat, and then I had to walk down 200 steps to reach the beach!

I hadn’t brought with me any swimming gear or towel so initially just made to with a short walk and a drink. The “town” as you can see, is actually out in the sea a little, joined by a narrow path. I’m led to believe people live here yet I cannot see one actual window in the photo below!

I was further put off a swim by the €25 cost for a sunbed, but after some time in the shade, decided the heat was so intense I needed to cool off.

The sea was lovely and warm (yet cool compared to the air) although I should have made more of a plan clothing wise before jumping in in just my boxers.

I can’t quite remember how or what order I re-dressed myself, apart from hanging my pants on a tree for about 20 minutes to dry off (I had my shorts on…). Not sure if it was worth the hassle but it was more pleasant than my last dip in the Adriatic, a NOVEMBER visit to Sarandë, Albania in 2018!

Rather surprised that I haven’t taken any other photos before the bus back ‘home’ to Podgorica?? Hmmm… Basically I returned back to Budva just in time for the County game at 4pm on the same beach I was earlier (lost 4-1 and two players sent off – good one to miss – even with another expensive Fanta). I went to another restaurant afterwards to watch more football on the TV with a bowl of soup, walked halfway back to the station, had some dinner in a local restaurant away from the touristy stuff, and headed to the station way to early struggling to stay awake.

I have found one photo, a rather crap one from the bus back, driving up the mountainside overlooking the town.

Day Three (Sunday) – Podgorica

Today will be quick as I had another full day in the capital.

My first stop was the “Orthodox Temple of Christ’s Resurrection” Church that looked quite impressive with no buildings of a similar size in the vicinity.

I say it every time but I’m not really one for religious buildings, HOWEVER, look at the colour and detail in here!

Strangely, apart from this grand open space, there wasn’t much else to explore for such a large building.

I’m certainly not a prayer-er-er-er , but I did remember that I still hadn’t secured a ticket for tomorrow. So a bit of divine intervention wouldn’t go amiss.

Whilst during a long aimless walk from the church to the below, that shows the apparent Podgorica “castle”, a phone call with my mother offered me slight hope of a ticket. Long story short, the official travel company for Welsh fans couldn’t get here because their plane was grounded, and therefore there MAY be some tickets that were returned.

As I entered the hotel where the ticket collection point was, I was told that if there are any spares they will be made available online later in the evening or tomorrow morning. Slight hope perhaps, but having seen plenty of people without tickets and the £4 price tag not worthy of being returned by no-shows my chances were not looking good.

With my list of things to do in Podgorica now almost exhausted, I returned to the hotel to wash some clothes (it’s not all photogenic sights and beers, kids….) then back out for some tea.

That evening, whilst boring dinner-wise, did entail a few Wales tickets being on sale officially – yet in a higher band than I’m in and quick to sell out, and TWO responses from Montenegrins giving me real hope.

A taxi driver I used a few times during my time in the city knew a mate in Niksic who worked for the Montenegro Football Association, and interested because I told him I’d give €30 to anyone who could help on top of the ticket price.

Secondly, my apartment host in Niksic for tomorrow also seemed keen to help, with tickets not going on sale until the day of the match (tomorrow). I was in high spirits choosing to walk the long road back to my digs for my last evening in the city.

Day Four (Monday) – Niksic and matchday

Fair to say the first 90 minutes of my morning could not have gone any worse.

I turned up for my 8am train around 40 minutes in advance, bought my €3-ish ticket and waited patiently for the train.

Only at 8:15 did I go to ask what time it was due, only to be told it had already departed twenty minutes EARLY and, being British, never expecting trains to arrive on time let alone early, was none the wiser as it approached, stopped, and consequently left the station without me.

Shit.

To add insult to injury, I received a message from my taxi driver stating that his mate can’t get me a ticket as his own Association warned not to let any Cymru fans in to the home end.

Shitter.

Now before you get too upset, this is where things miraculously started turning around.

The bus station next to the train station had a coach going to Niksic as soon as 9:30am and I was delighted to pay €6 and jump aboard. Whilst on the coach, my apartment host also agreed that we would go together to get some tickets once I arrived. Don’t get too hopeful, Christopher.

After only an hour or so the bus pulled in to Niksic, where it was only a 15 minute walk through the main square to where I was staying. I met my host Vladimir just as he finished getting my room ready (the highly recommended Old Niksic Apartment – link) and a few minutes later were in his car on the way to the stadium!

I was really surprised to see the queues outside the ticket office and immediately lost a bit of hope. Vlad and I agreed it would be best if he went to scope out the situation.

Unfortunately, due to Wales being a MASSIVE pull for the locals, tickets were strictly 1-per-Montengrin-ID, so we wouldn’t be able to go together.

However, being an absolute martyr, Vlad used his ID to buy a ticket, giving it to me(!!) along with the obvious comments about me behaving myself and keeping a low profile as it was his name on the ticket.

And there it was! Vlad the lad wouldn’t even accept more than the €10 cost even though I was adamant he should accept the €30 bonus I offered him when booking the stay.

I still had concerns about passing security at the ground, but nothing a few lagers wouldn’t calm. Perfectly, as Vladimir dropped me back at the apartment it was now 11:30 – acceptable enough to have a beer.

For the several hours before the game I stayed in one single pub (weirdly – it wasn’t even cheap) as I started editing photos for this post, spoke to a few north Walian’s and see the sunshine turn into grey clouds as it started to ABSOLUTELY PISS DOWN.

I really enjoyed the company of two fellow County fans Duncan and Tony (with his 8? pint glass) as we chatted and got excited for the game, in much quieter surroundings that usual, undoubtedly due to the weather.

I even put up with one of the local drunks trying to talk to me. Although I couln’t understand a word he said apart from a slurred ‘Montenegro’, he obviously loved me that much he donated his cap with the word Montenegro on to me! After initially fuming that he wouldn’t take his possession back, I thought…. well this will work bloody wonders getting into the stadium as a Montenegro fan!

AND IT DID.

Luckily the weather was so dreadful the security outside of the stadium wasn’t as stringent as I worried about. I took my seat with the home fans who didn’t look too disconcerting, yet I applauded their team and the anthem as though I was one of their own, reducing myself to only quietly hum along to Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau.

By the time I settled down and got over the fact I was actually there – I made it! – Wales were already two goals ahead after just three minutes thanks to Keiffer Moore and Harry Wilson.

It was a good job as well, as twenty minutes in to the game, the rain became impossibly worse and whatever tactics we had must have gone out of the window!

I didn’t want to chance hunting for a beer at half time so made do with a few ciggies and a selfie with my sexy aforementioned Montenegro cap.

The second half was chaotic as expected. Chuck in a short fireworks display and a late Montenegrin goal to make things interesting. But we won!

The walk back from the ground to the centre/apartment was about 20-30 minutes. I gave up trying to keep my shoes dry after two minutes, and by the time I got back was just walking in puddles up to my socks.

As we were walking I witness pubs closed, food outlets that would usually be open doing a roaring trade packing up, and went to bed hungry, wet and cold. Still. What a whirlwind of a day, thanks to the unbelievable generosity of a stranger. Cheers to Vladimir!

Day Five (Tuesday) – Niksic to Podgorica to Dubrovnik

Well, the rain stopped at least.

I didn’t bother putting too much effort in drying my clothes last night, so I was content with just my socks and trainers still being soggy. I was DREADING walking around in my only pair of shoes for today but they dried out quicker than anticipated.

After a slightly groggy start, it was time to walk back to the station (not the fucking train one) to travel back to Podgorica, before the onward journey to Croatia. I managed to book one in an hour’s time, which gave me an opportunity to get a burger and chips (at 11am) and replace my drowned ciggies.

As soon as I returned to Podgorica I thought in hindsight that I should have stayed a bit longer as three hours back here seemed a bit much.

Nevertheless, with a bit of digging above your usual google and TripAdvisor, decided to visit a park / forest area near the stadium, so quite central but a solid 45 minute walk each way with a heavy backpack on.

Gorica park was actually quite cool. The park itself covers a big area and I expect gets quite hilly as there are several viewpoints, although with limited time I was happy to walk up a small incline for ten minutes to reach the ‘Partisan Fighter’ monument, a tribute to those who fought in World War Two.

On making my way back down to the centre I noticed a few steps that would give me a decent view of Podgorica City Stadium – remember this was where yesterday’s game should have originally been played, but due to the pitch it was moved to Niksic. The ground had quite a bit of character but looking at the playing surface I doubt there could be to many complaints from the players!

Anyway, you’ll be pleased to know the rest of the trip was rather uneventful. I walked back to the bus station and on to the 4 hour ride to Dubrovnik. With a few stops and a ridiculously long time at the Croatian border crossing I didn’t get in to Dubrovnik until 10pm, so caught a quick uber to my apartment, a kebab from over the road and made some plans for tomorrow!

Day Six (Wednesday) – Dubrovnik

I’ve just mentioned I made plans late last night, but looking back I’m sure I booked today’s boat trip a bit earlier – a slight risk as I’d yet to have any idea of my bearings or how I would get to such vessel. Ultimately, after an early wake up and bag pack for a potential swim, I walked 20 minutes downhill from my lovely apartment (link) in the Lapad district of the city.

OK so it wasn’t that boat above, but cool eh? I think it goes from the Marina to the small port in Dubrovnik old town.

My boat tour would be around a few caves with a chance to swim, then on to a beach on a vehicle-less island. Having had a bit of a treacherous time at a beach on Saturday I hoped this would be a bit more enjoyable. The actual trip I bought through Viator is linked here. Not cheap but at £57 but very good value.

After the group of 12 sailed out of the marina then drive’ put his foot down, we soon arrived at a small island that was home to the ‘Blue Cave’. I made use of the complimentary snorkelling equipment and chucked myself in.

These 20 minutes or so were up their with the highlight of the trip.

The water was so clear and the amount of fish in the water was something I hadn’t experienced before, which was cool. As you can see in the photo below, the cave entrance is pretty much underwater. I think drowning would be my last option when my time comes, so it took some courage to swim underwater for 3 meters, not knowing what was on the other side. I can adequately swim but have never had to do so at any sort of pace or urgency. Never would have tried it if another 20 odd people went under before me!

The other side of the cave was an experience. It was obviously nearly pitch black, with the only light coming through the water. I’m still kicking myself I didn’t bring my waterproof phone pouch to take more photos.

As nice as the cave was, I didn’t really want to hang around, so after a minute made my way back out, under estimating the length of the cave, kicking the roof on the way out that produced way too much blood back on the boat for such a small cut on my foot!

Undeterred, I was straight back in the water for our next stop, an area with four caves of different ‘squeeze through this if you’re buts / stupid’ levels of size. There wasn’t really much to see and given my size (and slight claustrophobia perhaps) I weren’t going to do much exploring. I just enjoyed it as it was something I hadn’t done before.

Our third and last stop was to the beach on the secluded Sunj beach on Lopud island, the one with no cars. It does have a few shops and hotels, but as we had to disembark IN the water, waist high and walk to shore, decided to hang by the beach instead.

By the way, it really was a complete balls-up that I didn’t bring my flip-flops. In total I visited 3 beaches and a waterfall, which apart from here, all had really sharp sand or stones!

The water here was very shallow even quite a way out, but it was very clear and for not the first time this trip I had that “what a time to be alive” kinda’ feeling.

… so it was only right, that on the way back I rounded off the morning with a beer!

Back on land, I spent way too long first finding a bus stop then realising how infrequent some stops are, before choosing to walk back uphill for a nice shower in my room and more laundry duty!

I can’t quite remember how long I stayed in the room for, but it wasn’t as long as I thought looking at the sun below. This evening I was going to waste no time planning to briefly visit the old town and get a good view for sunset. My pedometer must have been close to a heart attack as I again sided with walking 30 minutes (downhill at least) to the old town rather than a bus.

Oooh look it’s that pirate ship from this morning!

There is probably a few photos missing here, but I’ll visit the old town again on Friday, so let me take this opportunity to tell you how miffed I was about the prices in the area.

One activity I was planning for Friday was to walk the city walls, a circular route along the walls (there is a path) that can take up to two hours. However, I thought €35 was an absolute piss take. Of course I get that the area needs significant investment to maintain the site, but that was just too much. There were literally hundreds of paying punters who did cough up the cost and I hope they thought it was worth it (I said I’ll pay it next time when I go with the wife).

Not to concentrate too much on the old town before Friday, but I like to try and to things in order, and on my way to the cable car noticed a few of these posters around, showing how much of the old town was targeted by the Yugoslavs between 1991 and 1992. Must be heart-breaking to see something of such historical and cultural significance being targeted.

Ok so I have changed my mind and will provide a couple of photos of the old town rather than two posters….

More of that further down.

My goal this evening was to reach the top of the hill / mountain whatever to see the sunset. By the time I reached the cable car to enable us tourists to do such, I was running very close to missing out.

Deep down I am way more furious at the cost of the cable car over the city walls. TWENTY EIGHT fucking Euro for a return trip on a cable car that takes 45 seconds. Trying to be a little defiant, I only bought a one way ticket at €15 and thought I’d walk back down after sunset. Ooohhh what a decision that was…

But before then, lets enjoy the nice stuff. The photo above is all of the Old Town, with the diamond plated magical cable car in the foreground.

… followed by two rather pleasant photos of the sunset. I’m pretty sure the first two islands in the background are where the caves were, the third being the beach.

So. That was nice. I just had to get back down now. After going the wrong way twice to even find the path, I was glad to see a good few others attempt the walk down with me.

However, that did not make up for the fact the path was formed of mainly large, loose stones and if you haven’t put 2+2 together being after sunset… it was starting to get dark.

The next HOUR was really quite a challenge. From the get go, I already felt a bit daft that I was doing this instead of paying the €13 for the return car. If I hurt my foot a) that’s the rest of my holiday buggered and b) will I get eaten by wolves up here?

The trail consisted of about 14 zig-zag paths, with each point depicting the journey of Christ – assumingly to his crucifixion and then the rising from the dead stuff. I wasn’t really in the spirit of following this too closely as just wanted to get down, and couldn’t even see them after perhaps the third one. I have no idea how the below picture came out so bright! It was ten minutes after the one above?!

With the help of some bangers on Radio X in my ears I eventually made progress with only a couple of slips. God, it was just so monotonous especially in the dark.

After I reached the last Jesus-stone-marker thingy I fully expected to be back in civilisation, yet was presented with about 15 minutes of forest to walk through, with mud replacing the rocks. Below would have been my view if my phone ran out of battery! I’d be dead wouldn’t I?

I’m writing this, so you guessed I made it. Funnily enough the end of the trail actually led out on to a busy dual carriageway for shits and giggles. I was so tired and fed up at this point I couldn’t be arsed to think about getting a bus, so walked for around another 45 minutes uphill to the apartment, again via the takeaway opposite, demolishing a 14 inch pizza. I had done 20,000 steps since teatime (which is a lot harder when you’re 20+ stone FYI).

Day Seven (Thursday) – Day Trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina

I had slept well after last nights shenanigans and a telling off from the wife.

Today I would spontaneously be adding country #46 to the list, by booking THIS Viator day trip to Mostar and Kravice Waterfalls through Viator for a very reasonable £38.

Fun fact: until a few years ago, from the southernmost area of Croatia where Dubrovnik is, you had to travel a few miles through Bosnia (and therefore two boring border crossings) to reach the rest of the country. The bit of Bosnia is where a small town called Neum is located, where we briefly stopped for a wee and I took the photo below.

A magnificent fun fact according to the tour guide: Bosnia has the shortest coastline in the world apart from Monaco! I made a note to check Aqaba in Jordan, as when we went there it was only a tiny gap between Saudi Arabia and Egypt, but to my surprise that coast is 26km compared to Bosnia’s 20km.

In the distance you can see a nice new bridge that has recently bypassed Bosnia – we’ll go there later.

Another fun fact: Why Bosnia *and* Herzegovina? Well, quite simply Bosnia is to the north, Herzegovina is the southern area. The nothern parts tend to be more aligned with Serbia and the south with Croatia.

In lieu of providing not as many fun facts as expected until now. Three in a row incoming….

Bosnia has three presidents and they change every eight months. I was surprised to find that B&H has a Muslim faith majority of 51% with Orthodox second around 30%. The place where we’re going next – Mostar – is the fifth hottest city in Europe (apparently – it wasn’t today!).

A not so fun fact is that Bosnia was not included in any of O2’s travel plans so I had to go, like, four hours without mobile data. Archaic. Imagine the costs if you were a Pokémon Go enthusiast.

I digress. We arrived at a coach park on the outskirts of the Old Town in Mostar, and for the first few blocks walking to the famous bridge witnessed dozens of buildings displaying reminders of the tragic Bosnia War between 1992 and 1995.

Our guided tour of the area only took about 30 minutes but covered enough. It was ample I thought. Through some very narrow market streets you end up at one side of the bridge, itself bombed by the Croats in 1993. I was surprised that the current version has only been in place since 2004. When checking the dates for this part I found this webpage really useful and insightful.

The bridge itself is… perhaps not the most spectacular you’ll see… but I guess the significance and history that surrounds it makes it very important. Nowadays, you’ll see many a social media video of people jumping off. Given the height, and the narrow river SURELY not being very deep?! I didn’t fancy getting my pants soggy just yet this morning.

Instead, I headed for an early lunch, which I kid of stumbled upon as I wanted to get a decent picture of the bridge from further away. Mission accomplished you could say with this banger below! Lunch was also really nice. I had soup followed by steak and chips with two cokes for about £18, and it looked the poshest place in the area.

There were two occasions where young lads (my eyesight is very good) were in a position to jump, attracting loads of selfie-stick waving tourists, but I’m sad to say they both bottled it. Pussies.

After lunch it was another slow walk through the old town, over the bridge and past the many gift shops and cafés (with SO MANY people in my fucking way) to jump back on the bus.

Although delighted that I felt enough to tick BiH off the list, I was still looking forward to visiting the waterfall on the way back, and unlike Saturday, actually brought a change of shorts!

I’m a bit annoyed that below is the only photo I took of Krevice, an area in the middle of nowhere but a good tourist setup with big car park, ticket office, cafes and even a train to bypass the 200 odd steps down to the small lake at the bottom of the falls.

We didn’t have much time here. 45 minutes I think…. So I didn’t waste any time stripping off and having a swim in the lake. I can’t really think of a time as an adult that I’ve swam in anything other than a beachy place or an actual swimming pool, so this seemed new. Again massively regretting my decision not to pack flip flops, I was greeted by rocks followed by sharp sand that I genuinely thought would draw blood!

When in the water though, I was peaceful again, to the point I lost track of time enough to miss the train back up the hill to the bus, and walking back up the bloody steps! At least the chafe was averted with a change of clothes eh?

That waterfall stop was about an hour from Mostar, so we had about 2-3 hours to go until Dubrovnik. This was pleasantly broken up by a stop at some toilets at the bridge I mentioned earlier. The bridge that meant Croats could finally travel to the whole of the country by road, without going through a slither of Bosnia.

Not embarrassed in the slightest to appreciate a good bridge, this beaut was opened no more than 3 years ago and incredibly only took two years to build! What I thought was equally impressive was the miles and miles of new road constructed over mostly redundant land on one of the many islands off the coast.

Although it was only mid afternoon by the time I got dropped off at the apartment, I made the choice to have a quiet night, watch some TV, smoke too many ciggies on my balcony and try to decipher whether to depart with 35 euro to walk the Old Town walls.

Don’t be disappointed. This would be at least 4 paragraphs longer if I actually did something!

Day Eight (Friday) – Dubrovnik Old Town

As my flight home wouldn’t be until 10pm that evening, I left my apartment at the last possible moment although I was able to leave my bag there for the day.

As I finally caught a bus the short time to the Old Town I was still in two minds about the walls. It wasn’t nice to have that treacherous path from Wednesday looming over me up the hill!

Ultimately I think I made the wise choice and decided to explore within the walls rather than walk around them.

A good choice in hindsight.

It was surprising how much of the town is on an incline and a steep one at that. Strange how many streets up the stairways felt so off the beaten path, and there’s quite a lot of houses, flats and hotels adorning these narrow alleys.

After a considerable effort making it to the top of the south side, there was a little opening that led to a stairway ending up with a bar and a view of the sea.

Back on my own trail following the internal circumference where I could, after about 45 minutes ended up at The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, which was worth a brief visit.

Just to the right of the image above were some steps leading down to the busier areas. These steps were obviously memorable from Game of Thrones with at least three tours simultaneously being delivered. I’m sorry but I just couldn’t relate. The TV show must have added so much in the way of special effects. Or maybe it was just the amount of people. I did nose at one tour that mentioned the shows had to bargain a payment with EVERY business within the walls to film, but I can’t recall the figure. Much like Harry Potter and Privet Drive, by the end of the season

A lazy coffee people watching and a final walk down the strip and I felt that I enjoyed the area enough within 3 hours.

On exiting the Old Town area Fort Lovrijenac caught my eye. More bloody steps but hopefully a decent view at the end of it!

And this view certainly didn’t disappoint. I didn’t go in to the fort itself at a cost of 15 Euro, but I thought the view to the visitor entrance was very acceptable and again justified not departing with unnecessary cash.

So that little trek was a good way to bring my adventures to a close. Albeit after a splendid lunch and getting lost finding my way back to the apartment to pick up my bag.

Don’t really want to end on another plate of cattle, so here’s another one of the Old Town. Best football away trip to date!

Finally, just a note that Dubrovnik airport is rather shit. Nowhere open even at 8pm, and of course the flight back was delayed by 90 minutes, being the last easyJet journey of the day!

Thanks for reading! I’ll leave you alone until 2025 now hopefully!… Unless I’m really on the ball with a trip to Northern France straight after Christmas.

South America Honeymoon (Peru, Argentina, Brazil) – August 2024

Hi everyone, thanks for visiting.

Firstly, as the title suggests, this mammoth trip was for our Honeymoon after getting married in March. The trip would not have been possible if not for generous gift contributions from guests, so thank you.

As this link will appear in our (very late) thank you cards, for many of you it might be your first time visiting. Brace yourself for some bad grammar, perhaps a little potty language, but some incredibly fun facts and enough nice photos to separate my spiel.

I (i.e. Chris) have been very fortunate to have travelled quite a bit, with this trip adding countries 43, 44 and 45 to the ongoing total. Many of my other trips since around 2018 can be found elsewhere on my blog by using the menu above, including our mini-moon to Barcelona and Andorra (link here).

As our honeymoon covered 18 days including travel, I’ve given you a break and split the trip into three parts, one for each country. Hope you enjoy and any feedback would be appreciated!

  • NOTE that I did initially attempt to write this during the trip. I failed. I’m writing this sentence in the hotel reception on an ancient PC on day 16!! As day 16 is in Brazil i.e. Portuguese language I cannot even find the bloody apostrophe on the keyboard! So that did not go to plan. However, I will likely upload separate posts in full, so if there is not link below, it has not been written yet.

Introduction.

Not really sure what to put here. I usually say a bit about the country I visit especially if they’re a bit off the beaten track. For this post though, they belong in their respective pages.

For the trip we used a company called Exoticca and paid our deposit in August 2023. At that time I never heard of Exoticca, so parting with a 60% deposit equating to thousands of pounds was a leap of faith! Since then I believe they have increased their presence a lot in the UK. The total price we paid for the trip was half of what local travel agents could offer.

Exoticca themselves are not much more than a middle man.  Sorting flights (nine in our case!) and handing us over to local tour operators in the given country. However, they pieced together the itinerary brilliantly, the hotels were perfectly adequate and they or the local operator were always on hand to assist.

We expected to be part of a group but in reality we were mostly left to our own devices. We shared a few excursions with other groups who had different holidays (for example one group done Peru and Ecuador so we were grouped with them in the Peru leg).

I usually thrive off planning my own travel plans, but in this case I’ll happily say it would have been impossible to achieve such a fulfilling holiday of a lifetime.

There is a lift of our hotels below with the relevant Booking.com link too for your perusal (PERU-sal, lolz).

That’ll do for the introduction at the moment. Click the links or images below to see our trip in detail.

Days 1 – 7: Peru

NOW FINISHED – CLICK HERE

Days 8 – 12: Argentina

NOW FINISHED – CLICK HERE

 

Days 13 – 17: Brazil

NOW FINISHED – CLICK HERE

Hotels.

The Algarve, Portugal – June 2024

Having yet finished the blog for my wedding day, forgive me for jumping ahead for this 3 night break to The Algarve in southern Portugal, primarily to watch Wales play a football friendly versus Gibraltar. A slight shame as I’ve yet to tick off Gibraltar as a country, whereas I’ve been lucky enough to visit Portugal twice before… Porto in 2009 and Lisbon in 2022.

What makes this holiday unique, especially for a football match, is that I dragged along my mother, who, approaching the age of 69, was a bit of a gamble but what’s the worst that can happen eh? (She’s alive this is not an obituary).

Introduction

The Algarve is the collective area of tourism hotspots along Atlantic beaches. Its capital is Faro but other prominent places include Albufeira and Lagos. Given its southern European location it offers good weather all year around. Although the resident population is around 500,000, it welcomes circa four million visitors each year. That’s like 11 thousand per day on average!

Flights, Locations and Accomodation

The flights direct from Bristol to Faro were around £200 each, using Jet2 going; easyJet coming back.

Having followed Wales away for 7 years now, I had been crying out for a proper beach destination, so this trip focused on more relaxation than fussing around seeking out interesting things. I had been in the sea during trips to Albania, Turkey and Latvia, but this was a different vibe.

We spent 2 days near Albufeira (in a tiny village called Evaristo, which was nothing like Albufeira) and 2 days in Faro. The game on evening 3 was played in the Estadio Algarve on the very outskirts of Faro.

In Evaristo, we stayed two nights in Hotel Torre Velha costing £113. For a 2 star hotel it was lovely. The pool was small but quiet and the restaurant and bar would excuse you from having to leave the place, although apparently one of the nicest beaches in the Algarve was just a 5 minute walk down the road. That being said… 2 nights here were plenty. Another day I’d be pulling my hair out as there’s only so much relaxing (or grey hair martyrs) I can muster.

In Faro, we stayed at Villa Monaco at £74 a night. Looking for somewhere on the centre of Faro proved difficult in my price range (I was originally going solo) so I think I got lucky here.

The villa was outstanding with it’s own pool, endless amenities including loads of perfume and kitchen essentials, that were nice but certainly unnecessary for our single night. They had 3 ensuite bedrooms but it was unclear whether you would stay with strangers as the place was marked sold out on booking.com. Only a 4 euro Uber into town too, which was out of walking distance.

Costs

So the flights and hotels mentioned above amounted to £400… £200 each. Finding a package holiday anywhere near that price for 3 nights would be impossible and we had the freedom to stay in two different places.

Drinks were in the region of £4 for imported lager and cider, with local lager variants a quid or so cheaper.

Food in an average/nice restaurant I’m gonna say is between £15-25, but there are enough places around, even in quieter areas, where you can pick up a burger and fries for under €10.

Uber over here is REALLY good and a bit of a must considering mum’s mobility. The public buses that I researched beforehand appeared punctual if you’re happy for slower journeys, but with two travelling the prices weren’t that cheaper. For example, an Uber from Albufeira to our hotel, about 15 minutes ride, came in at £6 whereas the bus was £5 and would have taken 45 minutes.

I have to mention the ticket cost set by either the Gibraltar football association or the stadium. Thirty quid to watch Wales reserves against one of the lowest ranked teams in the world in a mostly empty (shit) stadium. Good job I had already booked flights as this was a piss take. Before the full time result.

Getting Around

This is a stab in the dark as it really depends on where you stay along the southern coast.

You can get a coach from the airport to the major spots, ours cost €10 each to Albufeira, so Faro won’t be dearer than that and I doubt Uber would be as much. For that reason I’d use the airport taxis as a last resort (but then I am frugal AF).

Public buses in Albufeira and outskirts had good routes but seemed to run hourly and were cash only.

Uber, as I’ve mentioned in the previous section, was by far my most convenient way to travel. From Evaristo to our hotel in Faro it only cost €26 for a 45 minute journey. We could not have done that cheaper spending hours on buses and coaches.

Everywhere we went would be a walkers paradise if you’re comfortable with narrow pavements and uneven paths especially outside of the popular areas.

Google maps worked very, very well here. Research your mobile data usage with your provider before you go as per. O2 still offers free EU roaming in 2024, mum with Sky cost £2 per day but if my wife joined us I think EE charge £6 per day!

Things we didn’t do…

Ok this is going to be a drop in the ocean as there are so many places to stay. Before the trip I did plan on going quad biking or a boat trip but ultimately found myself content lazing around. The boat trip is perhaps the one thing I should have done. Available from most beach areas I believe, they advertise potential dolphin sightings and a trip to Benagil cave, a cave with a hole in the roof that can only be accessed by sea.

In my defence, the offerings on TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide didn’t really offer anything unmissable. A lot of other Brits we shared a bar with seemed content with beaches, pools and beers.

Itinerary

This is usually the longest part of the blog but I really thing the majority of my time especially in Evaristo isn’t worth writing home about! But anyway… One of the benefits for never writing this without a beer in hand!

Day One

I’ve never seen Bristol Airport so busy at 4am. Both the parking checking-in and security entailed long queues, but in fairness to the Airport they dealt with demand really well I thought. You can imagine how surprised I was then, when on the plane I had a whole row to myself! The flight was only half full and that was including 30-40 Wales supporters. I was not complaining.

The Brexit passport control in Faro was infuriating as per but nothing to cause too much stress, in fact by the time we asked about transport to Albufeira we were just in time to catch the coach to Albufeira bus station.

From here we had a 50 minute wait for a public bus with a coffee. Yet after a quick browse on Uber decided to use this with a car already outside direct to our hotel.

On set by 11am and with our room not yet ready, we enjoyed a cider poolside.

Once we had the keys to our room and had hung my aging flag over the balcony, we headed to the beach. I’ve never had to pay that much attention to inclines with maps usually so was not aware of the  hill and 50 odd steps down to the beach, both of which were a challenge for Mum (bear in mind I walk her 500m from the pub to the stadium on County matchday!)

The beach was nice albeit a bit sharp with shells. The sea was warm and clear. The sunbed hire at 15 euro a day was never going to get me to part with my cash but the stewards did double up as lifeguards.

We returned to the hotel before the lunch service ended at 3pm to enjoy a burger and a swim in the pool, paying zero attention to the rules as we chucked around a tennis ball. Aww playing catch with my Mum, how cute.

True to Iberian culture, I allowed myself a siesta before we wandered around the streets for some tea. I had researched every eatery within reasonable walking distance but decided on a low end sports bar offering peri peri chicken. I’m starting to think peri peri must just mean grilled rather than a specific spicy flavouring, as my chicken had no flavour at all, but was ok whilst simultaneously watching cricket, a Portugal friendly, Wales women and drinking a Kopparberg before the short walk home to have an early night.

Only once I jumped into bed that evening did I notice my solar panel shoulders on fire from sunburn. The factor 50 was still in my bag…

Day Two

Up early and straight to the beach. On my own this time to ensure mother would be on a seat on the flight home rather than in a box with the cargo! I was the only person here at this time, and whilst I didn’t notice a particularly low tide as signed, I did notice the jungle of seaweed I had to wade through. I’m someone who can’t stand the little bits in the milk after my cornflakes so this was an issue I was proud to overcome!

For breakfast, we headed to an English pool bar called Scooby’s a few minutes away. A large proper English breakfast worth the €13 whilst being really impressed by the venue. In addition to a pool with slide, complimentary if you have a drink or food, they also had a park, sandpit, animal area with ducks and terrapins, showers, comfortable seating, complimentary sun lotion… A proper effort that otherwise wouldn’t make it in this piece of literature with such a high bar. To top things off, the place also had a mini golf course we intended to use tomorrow.

The afternoon was spent by the pool side, which was lacking in interest aside from me starting to write this rubbish.

We grabbed an Uber into Albufeira arriving at 6.30pm in the old town. I immediately noticed on our approach that where we were staying was nothing like Albufeira, a bustling tourism hotspot, countless apartments built in to the cliffs, hundreds of bars playing British classics filled with thousands of tourists and a beach that looked better than where we were based. In comparison calling Evaristo a village is pushing it a bit!

From our drop off point we wandered through a narrow street aligned with bars that led to the main old town square. Here there were loads more restaurants, with each one having two people trying to persuade you to choose them. This got really annoying really quickly even though I’m somewhat used to it. I didn’t take my earphones which are always a good piece of equipment to encourage the “marketing” gangs to leave you alone.

Escaping at the other side of the street (think British bulldogs fighting to get to this stage) we were greeted with an excellent view of the sprawling beach.

An outside escalator – genius idea I must say – took us up to a panoramic view out of ear from another play of Sweet Caroline. The views here were really nice and made me think we should have come here earlier than we did.

After our descent back to the chaos, we chose a bar/restaurant… Obviously one without any fuckers outside begging for custom. Chicken and chips weren’t the worst at 12 euro including a pint, but you could tell the places were filling up fast. From our seat you could watch 5 different football channels (win) and hear four different speakers (not win).

Instead of escaping back home there and then, we braved another walk through Bon Jovi hell – back to the main square to grab mum a magnet, enjoying an ice cream in some relative peace near the steep narrow streets of the proper old town.

Christ, I’m a miserable old man! Maybe because I wasn’t on the piss myself? I do over worry about things kicking off at any given moment, without realising my total European away game days must be now pushing 2 months and I’ve never witnessed anything above slight inconvenience.

By now, mum had used up her 110% effort for the day, so after a few hill climbs to the nearest road we grabbed an Uber back to the hotel.

This was the only moment I thought to myself I would have done more if I were alone. I bet there were some really good viewpoints up here once the streets were navigated. Just as the sun was setting too. But never mind.

It’s not everyday you go to sunny Europe to watch the footy with your mother is it, and I’m sure there are plenty of people out there who would give anything to be in my shoes.

At the hotel we had a coffee, and I did sneak in one cider enjoying my own company (again writing this) but still in bed by 11pm, noticing that I would have trebled my alcohol intake had I stayed at home for quiz night down the local.

Sunburn update. Shoulders are now okay. It’s my thighs that now resemble a pair of doner kebabs being roasted on full.

Day Three – Faro and Matchday

Lets get the sunburn sorted nice and early. It was fine here on. I did ultimately tan orange but it did highlight my wedding ring beautifully. Very helpful with my psoriasis too!

Up at 8 for one final swim in the pool. Back to Scooby’s for breakfast as we had to check out at 11. I kept my promise with mini golf as I absolutely annihilated mum, not my usual matchday routine, before out Uber to the next hotel.

Our host for our villa who was waiting for our arrival 2 hours before planned, was overly nice telling us all of the complimentary facilities. I didn’t have it in my heart to tell her that as soon as we set bags down and freshened up, were going for a beer in town.

We headed straight to what we thought was beer central in Faro, yet the three bars in a row were sparsely populated with Cymru fans. Good for us, as pints of Super Bock and Somersby Apple were consumed, chatting to a decent guy and fellow Bucket Hatter called John who lives in Sheffield who we ended up giving a lift to the ground.

We got to the ground. A purpose built facility for Euro 2004 when Portugal hosted the competition. If you Google map it, the stadium was designed to look like the trophy, which it does majestically.

In reality the stadium was absolutely awful given its young 20 year age. Perhaps the way we were accommodated and the ground  5% full added to my opinion.

For such a low key game, our Uber took us to the drop off point 200 yards from the turnstiles, yet when we approached the ground, we’re herded through a 400 yard, completely OTT fenced area to actually get to said turnstiles. Half way there, with a security check, a number of groups were walking the other way as, for the first time in probably 1,000 games I’ve seen, they breathalysed random people upon entry. I did not note the parameters of the exclusion. Although I was with my hobbling mother, I did worry my 4 (only 4 FFS behave) beers might have been too much.

For a usual game our football association, the FAW, try to warn such mediocre stipulations. So that was frustrating.

Token flag photo. Up the County.

Gosh, what to say about the game. We drew with one of the lowest ranked teams in the world. It was so bad it will  be “one to tell the grandchildren”. I clocked the dry pitch disadvantage early on but every conversation ultimately must end with “you have to win against fucking Gibraltar”. Shambles.

A few caught me on the Tele. Absolutely loving the spectacle. At least it didn’t rain?!?……..

Back in to town afterwards using yet another Uber, we chose an Italian for pizza with a bucket of salad and called it an early night.

Day 4

As our flight was not until 10pm we had a full day to look around Faro.

Approaching the marina and yesterday’s brief visit, I could tell the city was a lot smaller than imagined.

We booked a boat trip for later so after a small breakfast headed to Santa Maria church, primarily for the views, although a chapel made using human bones was something rather different!

The views from the top were worth the 5 euro entrance. It wasn’t very high (less steps like) but neither is Faro.

Although you’d think Faro is a coastal place given the marina, there is a whole national park between the city. Wetlands that run for some massive square kilometre-age that I forget. A bout tour around these was the next stop.

The boat tour around the area cost 17 quid for an hour, not bad. Our Portuguese guide Andre spoke fluent German, French and English which was something special in its own right.

As Mum and I left the harbour we were flown over by at least four aircraft. I’m always in awe of how such metal machines can glide through the sky and still be considered the safest method of transport.

I was informed the area is a nature park, rather than a nature reserve. The difference being that if it was the latter, our small boat wouldn’t be allowed and neither was the big bloody airport!

We meandered through the park / marshes / bogs / whatever. Because the tide was so high at the time our obviously knowledgeable guide told us that we wouldn’t see a plethora of birds, but the one guarantee was that we’d pass an area full of “fiddler crabs”, which was good enough for me.

Fiddler crabs are known by their massive left claw, that they use to…. pull a lady crab and shag. Bigger the claw and all that… and wave to tourists on a boat, obviously.

Imagine coming to read this as a football blog and learning about a type of crab. I spoil you.

Back on solid ground, we wandered around the central streets so mum could get a Portuguese pastry and a coffee (and a rest).

Given it was only now 2pm and the town didn’t look as though it offered a lot, I kinda put my foot down for the first time and suggested we book yet another boat trip, this time going further than the national park to a beach on the coast.

Ilha deserta. Gonna take a hunch and guess that translates to deserted island. A perfect choice a few hours before a flight home.

In actual fact, there was a public shuttle to here and when we arrived there was a sole restaurant. But the rest was proper nature. Whilst mum enjoyed a sit down watching the waves I had a very detoxing walk.

We had a (nother) coffee in the restaurant before our boat back to mainland, Uber to the airport via villa to collect the bags, and that was that.

It’s a shame the football always has to ruin a Wales football away trip.

Thanks for reading.