So, it has been over a year since my last blog-worthy post, but you’d forgive me in the current circumstances. Covid 19 has prevented me attending football games in Rotterdam, Rome, Helsinki, Sofia, Dublin and Brussels, not forgetting the odd holiday I would have enjoyed!
Now we are coming out of lockdown, I felt it neccesary to try and get out a little bit, primarily because a week before the pubs reopened I had zero shorts that would fit! Thankfully some healthier people on the socials were making the most of the nice weather and provided inspiration to go visit some waterfalls!
I had never heard of a section at the Brecon Beacons named “waterfall country” before, nor was it such a popular site in this area of Wales, at least to my limited knowledge. After a bit of research and a surprisingly early wake up one Sunday morning, I was on my way.
You can see below that my trip was broken up in to two visits (you’ll see why) but seeing everything in one day is very possible if you are slightly more prepared.
Waterfalls 1-3
For my first visit, I followed directions given from the Natural Resources Wales website and headed to the Gwaun Hepste car park to the north of the falls. From Newport this should take about an hour passing through Ystrad Mynach and alongside Merthyr. Shortly before you arrive you will glance past Penderyn and the world reknowned whiskey distillery. Of course this was closed for visitors at this time, but a good idea to combine a stop here as I guess they do tours.
Fun fact: I have only ever tried Penderyn whiskey once… Colorado USA, deep in the Rocky mountains, at the hotel bar that gave Stephen King the inspiration for The Shining!
After the distillery you’ll soon break away from the main road down a concerning narrow lane, but the car park turning is well signposted. Arriving around 10:30am the spaces were filling up a bit but it was a big area with rangers on hand to point you to your spot. Parking cost a fiver which felt a bit steep but well worth it taking in to account you are now in the middle of nowhere, portaloos are hired and there was even a little coffee hut… and it’ll be cheaper than my first two pints when the pub’s open!
After a quick chat with the lady in the information booth, she confirmed the full loop to see all 4 falls would take 4-5 hours, and if you haven’t got that long, a visit to the most popular falls will take about 2.5 hours. As I left on a whim I didn’t expect to be out all day, so planned to just visit the best one and return. Down the path and turn left at the crossroads. Easy.
Wrong in thinking that this waypoint would be a few minutes away, it took a good half hour downhill hike to reach the crossroads, it being obvious that I would have to then walk back up hill some time later that day. A leg break crossed my mind but there didn’t seem to be the opportunity to land a rescue helicopter!
At the crossroads your options are to go to my car park, another car park further north (but the same distance I would guess), my intended waterfall left for an hour walk, or another waterfall just two minutes away. I thought to myself “well, now I’m here…” it would be daft not to visit the first falls – Sgwd Clun-Gwyn.
If you look at the map posted previously, you will see the red loop has generally a comfortable walking route, but anything on the green route expect to cross large rocks and climb some hills!
Sgwd Clun-Gwyn is viewable from up high, and you can hear it before you see it! Although impressive I can see why this was the lesser popular of the group, being tricky to get a great photo and no chance of a swim. You can somehow get to the other side that involves a detour to get right up close – but I didn’t entertain this. I guess it would be a 20-30 minute detour.
Now I had a choice to make, revisit the crossroads and go to fall 4 as intended, or complete the set knowing I’d regret it otherwise.
I thought about how many hours I have spent at home this last year either working or with nowhere to go and I pretty much had my answer. This was amplified by my ability to traverse across the difficult pathways. There was a worrying three month spell at the end of 2020 I had real issues with my feet and couldn’t even use the upstairs loo in the pub at the time. There were times when I wondered if I would ever be able to do something like this again, so THIS WAS LIBERATING. Think Forrest Gump breaking his leg braces off!
The walk to falls 2 and 3 was quite pleasant now I was in my stride – after the initial “it can’t be that way surely?” contemplation. The path slithered through more open spaces, relatively flat, offering views for miles. This was well and evenly signposted to track progress without constantly needing to refer to the photo I took of the map. Phone signal now was nil.
I would say it took a good half an hour to reach the point to break off and see falls 2 and 3. A sign post told me that to get to the falls it would be a 90 metre trek down and then back up that would take most people 20 minutes but me probably twice as long uphill especially, with rocky areas and (giant) steps to test the knees.
I pondered a bit longer this time. Another hour added on to the day for the daunting detour, or should I just continue on to the highlight, the social media money shot. Only a few minutes before did I think of writing about my day, so it would be a bit of a shit blog had I skipped it!?
After a mini pep talk and going over my thoughts that got me this far, six months ago I had to go upstairs in the house on my hands and knees FFS. I soon climbed down, with each step cringing at the thought of not only having to walk back soon, but that massive hill to get back to the car park. Will it be worth it?
Yes. Once finding the stream at the bottom of the hill you were treated with falls 2 AND 3. Double Bubble. To the left was falls 2 – Sqwd Isaf Clun-Gwynn – another ten minute walk but flat. These falls were broken up in to three sections of different sizes before quickly calming down in to the river. I actually found these to be the most photographic.
Falls number 3 – Sgwd y Pannwr was the other end of the point where you walk down but only 20 metres or so. This was quite impressive, being able to see the gentle stream drop off the edge and crash in to the pool below. A short walk from the path allowed a rocky beach area where a few people had settled, popping in for a swim and a better photo angle. I guess for frequent visitors this may be their favourite of the four falls. It’s rewarding to visit, swim-able and always going to be less folk around than the last one on my list.
I decided to have a rest here, as most people had done so to break out the picnic. I could have devoured a refuelling sandwich at this point, but in its absence I settled with a ciggy and a big swig of water. I had better walk back up at some point…
The hike back up the hill to the circular route wasn’t quite as tedious as I envisaged, but did require a few stops and drink breaks. I was confident in telling visitors at the top who were considering a jaunt that it was indeed well worth the effort.
Three down, one to go. The hardest part done, surely…
The shortish (10-15 minute) walk from falls 2 and 3 to number 4 was flat enough to enjoy and recuperate, but as I approached the sign post signalling the way for the last waterfall I felt significant unease. The sign told me to expect another deep return trip of 100 metres this time. I had already walked some distance in comparison to the past three months combined, I had half of my 500ml water left and literally miles away from the car, which was predominately up hill.
This time my drive and desire was sensibly beaten by the fact I would need more drink. Inevitably I felt a bit disappointed, lazy arguably, but I always ensure I have enough fluid to hand and didn’t want to imagine the walk back without. Could I ask someone for some of theirs? Should I have a swig from the river? Sure I wouldn’t have died, but I did want to enjoy myself too!
I continued on the loop towards base, assured that common sense prevailed over bottling it (not bottling enough more like) and indeed it was the sensible decision. By the time I reached the crossroads after 30 minutes, I had exhausted my water and still had 40 minutes to get back up to the car. This was inevitable but still HORRIBLE, and a lot of people passing I think agreed!
I eventually got back to the car, picking up more energy the closer I became, and seen off a half empty bottle I found in the back seat that could have been there for months! Having had over an hour to deal with my disappointment, I determined that I could always visit again, in the knowledge that the one I missed will be the best. I was also intrigued by some other paths noticed on the map, maybe I could take another route?
Sod it, I’ll get up stupid early on Saturday and finish it off.
And that I did!
Waterfall 4 – Sgwd yr Eira
As soon as I got home last week I looked in to a potential car park south of the trail, hopefully closer to my missing piece. Google advised the Dinas Rock car park, near Glynneath. I could only hope it was a little more flat but still challenging enough to not cheat and do it the easy way.
After a bit of guess work with the satnav I parked up (free!) by 8:30am and apart from a few cyclists getting ready for a ride somewhere, was the only other car. I should say here that none of the falls are suitable for cyclists. C’est impossible.
As you can see from the car park photo, Dinas Rock itself is a bit of an attraction, and from here there is an alternative “gunpowder trail” walk towards a former gunpowder works, and a more accessible 20 minute dawdle to the cascading river, both of which I would have liked to include if I didn’t need to be back home by early afternoon.
Again my trail was well signposted and marked, but having to walk up the side of Dinas Rock was no way to start! The limestone cliff so steep here they’ve stuck in a handrail. A rare sight indeed.
Not yet regretting my plan, the rest of the one hour walk was mainly smooth with a few small inclines. This route is a lot more open to appreciate the rolling hills of the Brecon Beacons and you have a good view of the Sugar Loaf in the distance for a good few minutes. I found it remarkable that I had full phone signal for 90% of the journey, having had none whatsoever last week. It was also a lot quieter with people. I did not see ANYONE on the way!
As expected, the fondly forgiving trail soon presented a sign post that told me I was near and to expect another long climb down. This was 100 metres and although only took ten minutes, I can only describe it as dangerous, with even the manmade steps being 15 inches or so. With the impact of 20-plus stone squeezing down on them my knees were at one point causing significant concern, but there was no going back now. With the pain subsiding, I turned the final corner to be greeted with fall 4 – Sgwd yr Eira.
Half-past nine wasn’t exactly early but noting that it takes an hour plus to get here I was one of only three others. Perfect time to get some photos and la creme de la creme, the walk behind the falls!
I had read some other blogs that mentioned “some” had foolishly tried to walk underneath the falls which in trueness was a bit strange. Having put your life on the line crossing boulders to reach this point, the area behind the fall was flat and not slippery at all, with plenty of space to pass others.
Obviously after last week’s error of judgement with food and drink intake, I had loads of water and wasn’t hungry! Yet I found a place to sit and admire the view, popped my feet in the freezing water and forced down a chicken wrap, admiring a group of lads who braved the cold waters – it was plenty deep enough to swim – until they soon jumped back out to warm up and have their deserved bottle of beer.
So, mission accomplished. By the time I left around 10:30 there must have been around eighty plus people present. Now to climb back up that 100 metres with a concerning knee, an hour back to the car, with a deadline to get back to Newport.
To top the day off, after that initial climb the rest of the walk back was really pleasant. Those slight hills I cursed going up previously were enjoyable to descend, and the phone signal meant I could listen to the days football build up. I am genuinely pleased I needed two visits.
Some tips if you decide to visit yourself:
- Bring plenty of water (obvious unless you’re me)
- Decent footwear is a must. I saw one lady in flipflops and couldn’t get my head around how she still had a full set of unbroken bones.
- Have a picnic at falls 2 and 3, but bear in mind you’ll still have some way to go!
- Sgwd y Pannwr is the best for a swim I reckon
Consider your car park. The websites will suggest the paid car parks but the walk back to the Gwaun Hepste was horrid. There’s no close one, I just found the trek back to Dinas Rock more… happy. - I visited after a week of NO rain in South Wales. It’s a dangerous terrain as it is, I cannot imagine it in poor weather.
- If you are driving back to Newport or Cardiff after, there’s a KFC and McDonalds just off the A-road when you get to Merthyr. Treat yourself; you deserve it!
The only task left to complete now, I thought was to finally write a rubbish blog, whilst finishing off any left over beer in the house before the pubs reopen Monday. And that is what I’m doing!
Thanks for reading 🙂
How Not 2 Life 